WINE WITH…Veal Chops with Mushrooms and Bourbon Cream Sauce

Adam and Eve. Abbott and Costello. Gin and tonic. Some partners seem so perfect together that it’s hard to imagine a better combination. One of the classic culinary duos of this sort is the teamwork of veal and mushrooms. Umami may be one reason these two foods make such a savory match, as mushrooms are notoriously loaded with it, and veal is an unusually umami-rich meat. Julia Child, who knew a thing or two about both of them, sang the praises of this particular duet. We love her recipe for veal chops braised with mushrooms and cream: only one bite and your senses are immediately transported to Paris. We recently riffed on the classic French version of it by adding a shot of Bourbon to the mushroom and cream combo, which resulted in an exceptionally savory Franco-American dish.

Veal Chops with Mushrooms and Bourbon Cream Sauce

Serves 2

We like to serve this rich dish with a simple vegetable such as steamed spinach.

Use any type of mushrooms you like. Morels are great when you can get them. We generally rely on a combination of shitake and regular button mushrooms.

2 veal chops, about 8 ounces each
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons thyme or herbes de Provence
salt and freshly ground pepper
2 cups sliced mushrooms
1 tablespoon butter
1 shallot, minced
¼ cup Bourbon
½ cup chicken stock
¼ cup crème fraiche or heavy cream

Trim excess fat from the chops if necessary. Stir together 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and 1 teaspoon of the thyme. Season with salt and pepper, then rub the mixture onto both sides of the chops. (This may be done up to a day in advance; refrigerate the chops until ready to use.)

To cook the mushrooms, place the remaining oil and the butter in a skillet over medium-high heat. When the butter foams, add the mushrooms and cook for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally (adjust the heat as necessary to keep them from burning). Add the shallot and the remaining thyme, and continue cooking until the mushrooms are tender. Season with salt and pepper. (This also may be done ahead of time.)

To cook the veal, heat the remaining tablespoon of oil in a large, sturdy skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chops and sear them until they are nicely browned on both sides, turning them once or twice until they are done, about 10-15 minutes (or until a meat thermometer registers 125-130°).

Transfer the chops to a plate and pour the Bourbon into the skillet, stirring it over medium-high heat for about a minute, then add the chicken stock. Cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture is reduced by about half. Stir in the cream and boil it down until the sauce is nice and thick (pour in any juices that have collected under the chops). Reduce the heat, add the mushrooms and continue cooking until heated through. Spoon the sauce over the veal chops and serve immediately.