I could go on and on about the just-released 2003 Joseph Phelps Insignia (and will in a review later this week) but I’d rather pause for a moment and reflect upon the man behind the wine.
No, not Joe Phelps, though Insignia — America’s first red Meritage wine — would not have been possible without Joe’s vision and staunch backing. That and the fact that he’s been a serious Bordeaux collector since before he built the Phelps winery.
Credit should go squarely where it’s due, and that would be on the reliable shoulders of longtime winemaker Craig Williams. He took over from the great Walter Schug when Insignia was in its infancy and his stewardship of this iconic Napa Valley wine speaks volumes about one man’s quest for perfection.
Craig Williams was never willing to rest on his accolades. He has tweaked the Insignia blend through the decades (the 2003 vintage is the 30th) in the belief it could always be better, no matter how wonderful it already was.
Phelps fans may remember that earlier vintages of Insignia had a pronounced eucalyptus note — a la Heitz Martha’s Vineyard — until Williams gradually phased it out in an effort to achieve greater purity of fruit.
I loved the 2002 Insignia and rated it highly (97 points) here at WRO. To my palate the ’03 is even better. And there’s but one man to thank for that.
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