Bruno Pépin, Commercial Director at Burgundy’s venerable Maison Louis Latour, describes his amazement upon awaking on the morning of April 8, 2021, “I saw a duck walking across my swimming pool. And it’s a salt-water pool.” Such was the strength of the frost that, along with other Biblical-like plagues, dramatically reduced yields in Burgundy in 2021.
Jeanne-Marie de Champs, a leading Beaune-based broker and an authority on Burgundy, told me that “growers were unhappy with the 2021s because of the small crop.” She recounts how frost, coming after a warm March that accelerated grape development, resulted in the loss of 50 to 80 percent of the Chardonnay crop.
Though the weather was nightmarish, many producers still made excellent wines although in small quantities. Indeed, it was fortuitous that the crop was small because the cool growing season lacked the energy to ripen more grapes. Two thousand twenty-one was a pre-climate change vintage—dramatically different from the heat of the preceding three years—and the wines reflect the growing conditions. The clean and crisp whites display great vibrancy and energy. Their racy profile allows the magical differences that white Burgundies can transmit to shine. By that I mean, Chablis tastes like Chablis, while Meursault tastes like Meursault and different from St. Aubin. I am fully aware that many consumers—perhaps most—prefer the lush profile of wines from warmer vintages. However, the magic of Burgundy rests with the marvelous differences between wines made from the same grape by the same winemaker in the same year, but grown in neighboring villages, or even vineyards.
Fortunately for consumers, lots of producers crafted appealing 2021s, and since the vintage itself did not receive high accolades from the press, plenty of the wines remain in the retail market. So, don’t overlook them amidst the enthusiasm and well-deserved praise for the 2022s.
You need not be a professor of economics to understand Burgundy pricing. Limited, without the possibility of expansion plantings (supply) with an increasing world-wide interest in Vins de Bourgogne (demand) explains the sticker shock. With the threat of tariffs on the horizon and a very short crop in 2024, prices are poised to go even higher.
Unlike the 2022s, which can be selected by a “shoot without pointing” method because of the vintage’s consistency, more selectively is needed with the 2021s. Below are my recommendations.
The 2021s, both reds and whites, from Maison Louis Latour are emblematic of the vintage and a lesson in Burgundy terroir because the winemaking for each wine is similar. Hence, the wines reflect their origins, which are not overshadowed by winemaking manipulations. They are emblematic of the vintage and worth searching for. Here are just two examples.
Latour made no Corton Grancey, their flagship red Corton, in 2021 because of the minuscule yields, (9 hl/ha compared to an average 35) which means that their best grapes went into the Domaine Corton red, which helps explain its grandeur in 2021. Meaty and iron-tinged, Domaine Corton is both elegant and powerful. Firm, not hard or astringent tannins, means it needs a decade in the cellar to show its true stature. This is a sleeper of the vintage and well-priced for Bourgogne Grand Cru (95 points; $113).
Maison Latour’s plush and minerally Volnay 1er Cru “En Chevret,” delivers surprising depth and richness for the vintage, making it a delight to drink now. It will elevate a roast chicken with a savory mushroom sauce to new heights (93 pts., $122).
Latour’s 2021 whites shined across all appellations. You can point and shoot with this array. Their flagship white, the fresh and lively Corton-Charlemagne, dazzled with its spicey minerality, length and overall grandeur. Give it a decade of cellaring (97 pts., $178).
Though not currently available in the U.S., according to wine-searcher.com, Latour’s Bâtard Montrachet, “Clos Poirier” should be on every high roller’s “find me list” when traveling. It’s likely the most stunning Bâtard I’ve tasted. Unlike neighboring Le Montrachet or Chevalier-Montrachet, Bâtard-Montrachet is typically known for its power. Elegance is not its calling card. Except for the “Clos Poirier,” which is a less than 1-ha parcel owned by a Monsieur Poirier, who lives in Champagne. Latour does the farming and is the sole bottler. The 2021, the third vintage, and like its two predecessors, is just fabulous. Broad and sumptuous, reflecting the weight and power of Bâtard, it displays a beguiling and electrifying elegance more in keeping with Le Montrachet itself (99 pts., $450).
Latour owns Simonnet-Febvre, one of the top producers in Chablis. They made exciting 2021s. Even their racy and bright village Chablis (90 pts., $33) is noteworthy. A cut above, however, is their floral and flinty Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu that ends with an engaging and lengthy minerality. It’s delicious now with oysters or sauteed scallops. (93 pts., $41).
Jeanne-Marie de Champs, one the most knowledgeable and skilled brokers in Burgundy, makes it sound easy, “My job is to find good farmers. If you find a good farmer, you will find good wine.” Her name on the back label of a bottle of wine is a guarantee of quality. Two producers she represents, Château de Maltroye in Chassagne-Montrachet and Domaine Parent in Pommard, made some outstanding 2021s.
Jeanne-Marie describes Jean-Pierre Cornut, owner and winemaker of the still family-owned estate Château de la Maltroye, as “precise and particular.” To protect his vines in winter, he buries them, an expensive undertaking since it is done by hand, but one that he insists results in better grapes the following year. He insists that all his grapes get to the winery within two hours of harvest, so he hires more harvesters than his neighbors. Though not committed to biodynamic farming, he does rely on the phases of the moon to determine the time to bottle his wines.
Château de la Maltroye’s bright and minerally 2021 Aligoté has good richness for a wine made from that grape. Aligoté’s characteristic firmness appears in the finish (91 pts., $32). Those looking for more creamy richness will embrace Château de la Maltroye’s fleshy Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot “Vigne Blanche.” A delightful, peppery spiciness complements its splendor (93 pts., $140). Cornut was equally successful with his floral red Chassagne-Montrachet in 2021. A saline-tinged acidity and the classic “flavor without weight” of red Burgundy makes it a superb choice with grilled salmon or tuna (92 pts., $86).
Anne Parent, representing the 8th generation to run the family-owned firm, Domaine Parent, has recently given the reins to her niece, Constance Fages-Parent, to lead what is arguably Pommard’s best estate. Parent’s aromatic and stylish 2021 Bourgogne Rouge “Selection Pomone,” made from old vines, show the complexity that old vines provide and elevates it above its appellation. It shows “simple” Bourgogne Rouge in the right hands can be magical (91 pts., $65). More magical still is Parent’s floral and captivating 2021 Pommard “La Croix Blanche.” Although “just” sporting a village appellation, you’d be forgiven if you think you’re drinking a premier cru. Its explosive nose predicts pleasure will follow, and it does. Powerful, yet impeccably refined, it’s a joy to drink this gorgeous wine now. The empty glass smells great! (95 pts., $111).
The Mâconnais remains fertile ground for finding excellent wines at good prices, at least by Burgundy standards. Two of my favorite producers are Domaine Soufrandière (along with their négociant business, under the Bret Brothers label), and Domaine Guillot-Broux. These three labels never disappoint, so they are good names to remember. Domaine Soufrandière’s rich and racy 2021 Mâcon-Vinzelles, “Clos de la Grandpère,” from a vineyard planted by Jean-Philippe Bret’s grandfather, delivers majesty and finesse rarely seen in wines from this appellation (94 pts., $48). Similarly outstanding, the bright 2021 Mâcon-Chardonnay “Les Crays under the Bret Brothers label displays an impeccable balance of fruitiness and minerality (93 pts., $47).
Domaine Guillot-Broux focuses on terroir. They highlight the vineyard name on the front label, relegating the appellation to the back label. Their riveting mid-weight 2021 Les Genevrières (AOC Mâcon-Cruzille), another wine that exceeds the reputation of its appellation, conveys an engaging spicey stoniness. It’s rare to find a wine from Mâcon with this kind of complexity (94 pts., $39).
Returning to the Côte d’Or, I need to highlight two reds from a small Beaune-based family producer, Domaine Fatien, whose wines, sadly, are not yet available in the U.S. Their perfumed 2021 Beaune “Les Beaux Fougets,” another village wine that hits above its appellation, is a lesson in elegance and purity (93 pts., n/a). In the same vein, Fatien’s minerally 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin “Bel Air,” punches above its weight class with crunchy red fruit and savory earthiness (93 pts., n/a). Savvy importers should investigate.
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E-mail me your thoughts about Bourgogne in general or the 2021s in specific at [email protected] and follow me on X (formerly Twitter) and Instagram @MichaelApstein
December 10, 2024