My palate is picky. When you taste as much wine as I do over the course of a year, it takes something special to stand out. Recently, I came across a line of new wines from Chile that is worthy of attention.
You might not recognize the name of the parent company – Emiliana – but they are the second largest exporter of Chilean wines to the United States with the Walnut Crest brand. This month Emiliana is launching their ‘Natura’ wines, which are made from organically grown grapes. Priced at around $10-12, the Carmenere, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon bust the current belief that organically grown wines are pricey.
Not only is Emiliana creating a buzz with affordable organics, they’re releasing two world-class red blends – Coyam and G – produced with biodynamically grown fruit.
What are the differences?
Organically grown – This means that grapes are grown without the use of pesticides or chemicals. Pests and vine diseases are managed through natural measures such as cover crops, animals and insects.
Biodynamics – Think of biodynamics as uber-organics based on principles developed by Austrian scientist Rudolf Steiner in the early 1920s. As with organically grown wines, the use of synthetic and chemical fertilizers, pesticides, and herbicides are not allowed, but biodynamics is much more than that. Derived from Greek root words that mean life and energy, the biodynamic approach of growing grapes treats the soil as a living organism and focuses on balancing the entire vineyard and winery environment with the world at large. Wineries that adhere to the rigorous tenants of biodynamics can attain the gold standard of certification from an international organization named Demeter. Look for the Demeter seal on bottles of certified biodynamic wines.
Since committing to converting their vineyards in 1998, Emiliana has become the largest organic grower in Chile with more than 1700 acres of their vineyard land certified organic and biodynamic. Alpacas and goats nosh on vineyard weeds and all biodynamic preparations are made with herbs grown on the property. Emiliana’s ultra-premium red blend ‘G’ was actually the first certified Demeter wine in South America.
Run by members of the family involved with Chile’s famous producer Concha y Toro, Emiliana’s leaders could be considered wine royalty. One of those luminaries is José Guilisasti Gana. Viticulturist and vineyard manager, he is the driving force behind Emiliana’s conversion to organics and biodynamics. In 2001 Guilisasti Gana teamed up with one of Chile’s top winemakers, Alvaro Espinoza, and revved up their organic project.
Espinoza worked in the United States with the Fetzer family at Bonterra, as well as building up the organic program at one of Chile’s top wineries, Carmen, in the 1990s.
What speaks to me when tasting the wines, however, is Espinoza training in France. He was educated at the University of Bordeaux and the French focus shows through in his elegant, stylish wines with true Chilean personality.
Tasting Notes
Emiliana (Colchagua Valley, Chile) ‘G’ 2003 ($80, Banfi Vintners Imports): Primarily Syrah blended with equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chile’s signature red variety Carmenere, this is an intense, classy red with character. Dark fruit and licorice aromas are layered with mineral notes and supple tannins. Certified biodynamic, this deeply-colored, rich and complex wine drinks well now with decanting, but will improve for a decade or more. 96
Emiliana (Central Valley, Chile) ‘Coyam’ 2005 ($30, Banfi Vintners Imports): With earthy complexity rounded out by lush fruit flavors, this delicious Syrah/Carmenere/Cabernet Sauvignon blend is well-priced considering the quality level. Grippy, plush and vibrant, it has just about everything you want in a red. The chic label of oak bark is an ode to the name Coyam, which is a native word for oak forests. 93
Emiliana (Colchagua Valley, Chile) ‘Natura’ Carmenere 2005 ($12, Banfi Vintners Imports): An ideal wine to get acquainted with the beauty of Carmenere, Chile’s unique red grape. Most affordably priced versions can be too herbal and earthy, but this wine captures the spicy, dried herbal notes of Carmenere coupled with its sultry texture. High marks for value and quality. 90
Emiliana (Casablanca Valley, Chile) ‘Natura’ Chardonnay 2006 ($12, Banfi Vintners Imports): For Chardonnay lovers, this juicy, succulent white is sure to please. Lightly oaked with ripe tropical fruit balanced by zesty acidity, it’s a winner. With vibrancy and freshness, it works when sipped alone as a cocktail or with dishes from grilled salmon to pasta in a cream sauce. 88
Emiliana (Central Valley, Chile) ‘Natura’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($12, Banfi Vintners Imports): Showcasing a more elegant style with floral aromas, smooth tannins and lighter complexity. 87
PHOTOS: Top, alpaca roam on the farm; middle, winemaker Alvaro Espinoza; bottom, the Emiliana vineyards.