It’s official. Summertime has started and with that comes al fresco living. From the unmistakable sizzle of food on the grill at backyard barbeques to celebrating warm weather poolside, much of our social lives from June to September will take place outdoors.
When it comes to wine to serve for cocktails or to a crowd, I recommend looking for solid producers who make enjoyable, affordable, and available wines. The following four family-owned operations are some of my perennial favorites and allow you to take a vinous trip around the world while relaxing on your hammock.
California: Rancho Zabaco
Part of the Gallo family of wines, this Sonoma-focused brand is named for one of California’s earliest land grants located in what is now Dry Creek Valley. Winemaker Eric Cinnamon shows off his talent with signature hearty Zinfandels, including the popularly-priced Dancing Bull Zin line, but Zabaco also makes easy-sipping whites and reds from Pinot Gris to Merlot.
Rancho Zabaco, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chiotti Vineyard Zinfandel 2003 ($25): Grown in what as known as Dry Creek’s ‘Zin Zone,’ this is a no-holds-barred style. Briary, wild berry aromas lead into a fleshy, chewy red with full-bodied richness and a long, peppery finish. Succulent fruit flavors are present but unlike so many over-ripe, fruit bomb Zinfandels on the market today, this one showcases spiciness over sweetness. 92
Rancho Zabaco, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2004 ($18): If you like New Zealand-styles of Sauvignon Blanc, you’ll gravitate towards this California version with touches of fresh herbs on the nose. Not a green machine, as are so many Kiwi wines, it focuses instead on integrated aromas of cut grass layered with taut citrus notes. Medium-full bodied in the mouth with juicy green apple flavors. 89
Rancho Zabaco, California (United States) Chardonnay ‘Dancing Bull’ 2004 ($10): The light-hearted Dancing Bull line has expanded to include not only their well-known Zinfandel, but also Merlot, Cabernet and Sauvignon Blanc. Now, a Chardonnay joins the lineup. This one is restrained with just a brush of spice notes from oak and highlights crisp, clean fruit. Try it with turkey burgers for a spot-on pairing. 87
New Zealand: Kim Crawford
Established in 1996 by Kim Crawford and his wife Erica, this brand is hot. Kim makes the wine while Erica focuses on sales and marketing and together they make a formidable team. Whether crafting unoaked Chardonnay or elegant Pinot Noir, Kim selects top vineyards from Gisborne on the country’s north island all the way down to Marlborough on the south island and beyond. Wines are topped by screwcaps, which makes them ideal for casual entertaining.
Kim Crawford, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($17, Vincor USA): Classic New Zealand style that will make you fall in love with Sauvignon Blanc. Aromas of freshly-mown grass and passionfruit draw you in, and then exotic flavors of pink grapefruit and crisp Asian pear seal the deal. Medium-bodied smoothness tempers the zesty acidity in a wine you’ll drink all season long. 90
Kim Crawford, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2005 ($17, Vincor USA): It is often hard to find an affordable Pinot that delivers fruit along with a hint of earthiness and complexity, but this one does. Dark cherry fruitiness is accented with vanilla notes from moderate oak and aromas of sweet tea. The tannins are supple and the acid bright, making this an ideal wine for grilled salmon. 89
Kim Crawford, Marlborough (New Zealand) Dry Riesling 2004 ($17, Vincor USA): For the Alsatian Riesling lovers in the group, seek out this alternative wine. Bone-dry in style with intense aromatics of white peach and freesia, it showcases ripe fruit and a mouth-filling texture tinged with minerality. 88
Australia: Yalumba
Australia’s oldest family owned winery also ranks among its best. Founded in 1849 by Samuel Smith, it’s now run by sixth generation family member, Robert Hill Smith. The name is aboriginal for ‘all the land around’ and it’s located in the scenic Eden Valley hills above the Barossa in South Australia. Whether sipping their affordable ‘Y’ series and Oxford Landing brands or imbibing their top-of-the-line wine, I’ve always been impressed by Yalumba’s offerings.
Yalumba, Eden Valley (Australia) “The Virgilius” Viognier 2004 ($40, Negociants USA): Outside of the Condrieu region of France, you’d be hard pressed to find a better Viognier. Yalumba specializes in the rare variety, which thrives in the cooler-climate Eden Valley. Their flagship white is named after the famous poet from ancient Rome, and the wine is itself a work of art. Classic aromas of lychee, spice and orange blossom jump from the glass and are followed by sumptuous tropical fruit flavors. The curvaceous and ultra-rich texture that defines Viognier is present in this decadent bottling. 94
Yalumba, Barossa (Australia) Bush Vine Grenache 2004 ($17, Negociants USA): Grenache is known as the key variety in southern France and northern Spain (where it’s called Garnacha) but the land Down Under is home to intense and old plantings, too. Made from 70-year-old head-pruned vines (free-standing and squat, they look more like small bushes than vines) this is a spice-driven red. Red berry fruit flavors and licorice notes anchor the weighty wine, which is deceptively powerful and earthy. 89
Oxford Landing, (South Australia) Viognier 2005 ($9, Negociants USA): Yalumba’s bargain brand, this wine is a steal for the quality level. Aromatic, soft and juicy but with a kick of bright acidity, it’s a wine to stock up on by the case for summer sipping. 87
France: The Perrin Family
You might know them as the proprietors of the much-lauded property, Chateau du Beaucastel in southern France’s Chateauneuf-du-Pape appellation, but the Perrin family produces a wider range of wines. As specialists of wines from the southern Rhône, they craft the Perrin & Fils line to focus on regional specialities and offer the value La Vieille Ferme label for easy drinking.
Perrin & Fils, Gigondas (France) “La Gille” 2004 ($27, Vineyard Brands): I call Gigondas ‘baby’ Chateauneuf. A neighboring appellation to its famous brethren, the grape varieties are nearly identical and so is the flavor profile. Gigondas, however, tends to be approachable when young and more affordably priced. This wine–a marriage of 80 percent Grenache and 20 percent Syrah–explodes with dusty aromas, dark spice notes and plum fruit. Though forward and expressive now, there is an underlying complexity and gripping tannins that denotes its ability to age well. 90
Perrin Reserve, Cotes-du-Rhone (France) Rouge 2004 ($10, Vineyard Brands): This sun-soaked red is a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre and Cinsault. Licorice notes mix it up with dark berry fruitiness and smoky undertones in a wine whose quality belies its price. 88
La Vieille Ferme, Cotes du Ventoux (France) Rose 2005 ($8, Vineyard Brands): Talk about lip-smackingly fresh! The fruit flavors lean towards the black raspberry, cherry side of the scale with a dash of peppery spice on the finish. A slap of acidity keeps you on your toes and makes for an ideal pairing with tangy barbeque chicken or ribs. 87