This is part one of a two part series. Michael Apstein will ring in later this month with a report on Western Australian reds.
Had your fill of power-packed, muscle-bound Australian wines? To find elegant, European-styled versions from Down Under all you need to do is head west. I did exactly that recently, along with my Wine Review Online colleagues Robert Whitley and Michael Apstein, and what I discovered was impressive.
First, let me tell you that visiting Western Australia is a time-consuming adventure. Its capital city, Perth, is actually closer to Singapore than Sydney, Australia’s famous city located on the country’s east coast. Traveling from San Francisco for upwards of 25 hours by plane, however, is worth the effort.
The largest of Australia’s seven states, Western Australia is sparsely populated (unless we’re counting the kangaroos that swarm the countryside by the thousands). Unencumbered by too many people, you really get to enjoy the stunning landscape. Miles of gorgeous coastline known for world-class surfing vies with ancient forests of copper-colored eucalyptus trees for top billing in the beauty department.
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Not only is Western Australia the largest state, it’s also one of Australia’s richest. Much of the area’s wealth comes from mining natural resources such as diamonds, nickel and gold. Grapes, however, are a rising-star resource. Surrounded by both the Indian and Southern oceans, vineyards in Western Australia benefit from cooling breezes at night while warm days deliver sunshine. The result of this cool, maritime climate is stylish wines with vibrancy and complexity. As Anthony Wilkes, CEO of Ferngrove Vineyards Estate in Frankland River says, “I can give you three words to describe Western Australian wines: intense, elegant and fresh.”
Many of the 2005s whites are just hitting store shelves now, so it’s a perfect time to explore the whites of Oz’s Wild West.
Places to Know
I would be remiss in talking about Western Australia without delving into some of its important sub-regions. The first is Margaret River, located about a three-hour drive south of the city of Perth along the coast. The coastal climate is very similar to France’s Bordeaux region making it an ideal home for growing Bordeaux varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon.
Although blends of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc (dubbed SSB or SBS depending upon the primary variety in the blend) are popular, Chardonnay is what I find to be Margaret River’s star white.
It’s not only the surfing and wine that brings tourists to this hot spot. Wineries usually have on-site restaurants, and, with an abundance of local produce from cheeses to shellfish, food has become a top attraction in this slice of vinous paradise.
While Margaret River ranks as the most recognized sub-appellation of Western Australia, the large, rugged Great Southern area is gaining in popularity due primarily to world-class, dry-style Rieslings. Look for those from two smaller districts named Frankland River and Mount Barker. Both have a more continental rather than maritime-influenced climate. With warm days and very cool nights, Rieslings grown in both these areas develop complexity while retaining purity and vibrancy.
I am a die-hard Riesling fan and have long considered dry examples from South Australia’s Clare and Eden Valleys as benchmark wines. After sampling the amazingly long-lived Rieslings from the Great Southern, however, I’m adding them to my list of classics from around the world.
Whites to Try
Affordable Brands:
Margaret River is not the place to find sub-$5 dollar bottles, as most producers range from boutique to moderately-sized operations, but there are delicious bargain brands generally carrying the larger Western Australia designation.
Evans & Tate, Western Australia (Australia) Unwooded Chardonnay “Underground Series” 2004 ($10, Scott Street Portfolio): A great-value brand from one of Western Australia’s top producers. This zesty wine sees no oak barrels so it sports pure green apple notes and crisp acidity. 88
Palandri, Western Australia (Australia) Boundary Road Unoaked Chardonnay 2005 ($11, Palandri USA): An easy-drinking style of Chardonnay that also refrains from the use of oak. Its creamy, soft texture comes from extended contact with yeast lees. 86
Mad Fish, Western Australia (Australia) Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($13 Commonwealth Wine & Spirits): From the talented team at Howard Park, one of Margaret River’s most highly-regarded wineries, comes the Mad Fish brand. Their juicy style of Sauvignon Blanc is less herbal than many other versions and packed with citrusy freshness. 87
Ferngrove, Frankland River (Great Southern, Western Australia) Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2005 ($20, Ferngrove USA): A classic Western Australian blend from a modern winery based in the Great Southern area, this is comprised by an almost equal combination of the two varieties. It is a very nice, grapefruit-scented white with an underlying honeyed character. 87
Goundry, Western Australia (Australia) Riesling “Offspring” 2005 ($14, Vincor): This is an historic producer delivering affordability and availability with their Offspring line. Aromatic, floral notes are followed by succulent melon flavors. Dry and delicious, it’s an ideal pick for spicy fare. 88
Barking Owl, Western Australia (Australia) Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($13, Outback Red Imports): From Millbrook winery in the Perth Hills, the Barking Owl label delivers true western Aussie character at a value price. This mouth-watering white overflows with lemony notes paired with a hint of fresh herbal aromas. 89
Margaret River Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon Blends:
Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia) “Art Series” Chardonnay 2003 ($65, Old Bridge Cellars): If you love Chardonnay, you owe it to yourself to discover why this amazingly complex wine ranks among the world’s best. Its minerality is reminiscent of great Burgundy but is complemented with opulent, ripe fruit flavors. Founded by Denis and Tricia Horgan in the late 1970s, Leeuwin is the flagship winery of Western Australia. 97
Voyager Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay 2004 ($22, Serge Doré Selections, Ltd.): Ultra-elegant wine at a price that makes you smile. Made from Dijon clones, this Chardonnay is creamy and nutty. Spicy, butterscotch notes come from the use of a small percent of new oak barrels, but overall the wine is impeccably balanced with vibrant acidity. A great deal not to miss. 92
Evans & Tate, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay 2004 ($18, Scott Street Portfolio): Another well-priced Chardonnay that offers complexity and balance. Orange blossom and cinnamon spice aromas wrap around a bright core of zesty peach and pear flavors in this lovely, expressive wine. 90
Cullen, Margaret River (Western Australia) Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2005 ($30, Young’s Market): Vanya Cullen is a star winemaker who focuses on biodynamic and organic farming. This succulent blend is mostly Sauvignon Blanc with a dash of Semillon. Barrel fermented using wild yeasts, the wine is layered and lush. 92
Pitchfork by Hay Shed Hill, Margaret River (Western Australia) Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($15, McWilliams Wines): The Pitchfork label from Hay Shed Hill winery is a series of whimsical wines with labels based on original fashion designs. A lemon/lime-laden white with intense aromas and pure fruit flavors. Zesty and sassy, drinking it is a bit like donning the willowy green frock on the label. 89
Dry Rieslings from the Great Southern:
Plantagenet, Mount Barker (Great Southern, Western Australia) Riesling 2005 ($17, Robert Whale Selections): As the first winery in the Great Southern region, owner Tony Smith joked he wasn’t a pioneer, simply a sheep farmer in need of a cash crop who planted vines in 1968 “out of desperation.” Plantagenet is now the leader of the region. Their Riesling is simply stunning. Taut as a guitar string, the wine’s acidity and minerality is balanced with kiwi-like freshness. This Riesling shows at its best when aged at least five years so try to hold on to a few bottles if you can. It won’t be easy but at least the wine is affordable enough to stock up by the case. 95
Alkoomi, Frankland River (Great Southern, Western Australia) Riesling 2005 ($17, Ravensvale Group): Alkoomi was established in 1971 in Frankland River and focuses on elegantly-styled wines. Their Riesling showcases aromatic floral notes with Alsatian-like petrol aromas. 91
Ferngrove, Frankland River (Great Southern, Western Australia) Riesling “Cossack” 2005 ($20, Ferngrove USA): The “orchid” line of wines from Ferngrove is a step-up in complexity from their estate brand. Cossack is the type of orchid artfully depicted on the label of this modern-style Riesling. Pure and racy, it’s a winner. 90