Although Rioja is arguably Spain’s most prominent wine region, it was just about the last to catch the wave of modern winemaking that has made Spain the darling of the young, hip crowd of wine enthusiasts populating wine bars across America.
Make no mistake, traditional Rioja can be fabulous wine, but it often leaves generation next wanting more — more fruit, more alcohol, more obvious new oak. A growing number of producers in the Rioja district are stepping up to meet this demand with what are being described as “high expression” Rioja wines that sometimes eschew the traditional crianza, reserva and gran reserva classifications.
I tackle the subject in my nationally syndicated wine column for the Creators Syndicate. Click here to read the whole thing. I’ve penned brief thumbnails and wine ratings for four of the more impressive modern Rioja producers, but I must admit I was most impressed by Artadi and Roda.
Unfortunately, Artadi’s flagship wine is the limited production Vina El Pison, a 100 percent Tempranillo from the 60-year-old El Pison vineyard. It not only costs $300 per bottle, but only 600 bottles (100 six-packs) are exported to the U.S.
On the other hand, the other Artadi wines are remarkable as well and splendidly priced at around $20 per bottle for the least expensive (but still yummy!).
Photo: Artadi’s prize vineyard, El Pison.
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