Holiday Wine Steals, Imports (Reds)

Dec 12, 2012 | Blog

From my Creators Syndicate Wine Talk column, "Holiday Wine Steals, Imports."

These are the suggested red wines, all chosen from evaluations completed over the past year. Wines were selected for quality, price and availability. All are distributed nationally or easily available on the internet.

The reds:

Chateau L’Hospitalet 2009 Reserve La Clape, France ($20)
– This La Clare Reserve from L’Hospitalet is what’s known as a GSM blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. It delivers rich, sensuous textures with supple tannins and layered blackberry and black raspberry fruit. La Clape is a small spit of land that juts into the Mediterranean (eons ago it was once an island unto itself) southeast of Narbonne in the Languedoc-Roussillon region of southern France. It was once a sub-appellation of the Coteaux du Languedoc, but last year was elevated to AOC Grand Cru status, a long overdue and well deserved promotion in vineyard rank. Chateau L’Hospitalet is the centerpiece of proprietor Gerard Bertrand’s impressive wine empire that spans the entire Languedoc-Roussillon region. Rating: 91.

Natura 2010 Carmenere, Colchagua Valley, Chile ($11) – Carmenere, for those not familiar with this somewhat esoteric grape variety, was once common in the Bordeaux region of France, but was eventually abandoned because to thrive it needs more summer heat than Bordeaux typically provides. Chile, as it happened, had copious acres of Carmenere planted under the mistaken impression it was Merlot. But unlike true Merlot, the vines the Chileans thought were Merlot performed poorly in cooler regions and much better in warmer areas. DNA testing eventually outed the truth: What the Chileans thought was Merlot was actually Carmenere, and grown in the right areas it yields wines that are rich, robust and delicious. Rating: 91.

Banfi 2010 Centine Rosso, Toscana IGT, Italy ($12) – I’ve long been impressed by Centine Rosso, which I often call a “baby Super Tuscan.” The 2010 is a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. What’s most impressive is its structure. This is a well-proportioned red that has structure and depth not often seen in wines at this price. Banfi is most famous for its superb Brunello di Montalcino, but it was the success of Centine Rosso and Banfi’s delicious but inexpensive Chianti Classico that influenced me most when I named Banfi my Winery of the Year in 2011.The Castello Banfi Brunellos start at around $60 a bottle. They are wonderful wines that will age well, but if you want a delicious Italian red tonight and your budget is a factor, Centine Rosso is a tough act to beat. Rating: 91.

Dow’s Vale do Bomfim 2009, Douro Valley, Portugal ($12) – One of my top candidates for greatest value in red wine this year is the blend from Vale do Bomfim, the primary quinta of the Dow Port house. The Douro region, long recognized for its sweet fortified red wines, has taken a serious turn in recent years toward dry red table wines. This most recent vintage of Vale do Bomfim from Dow is a typical blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Franca and Tinta Barroca. The 2009 exhibits palate weight and complexity that would be difficult to replicate in this price range. The fruit is fleshy and persistent, with notes of blueberry and blackberry, and the ample tannins are supple and smooth. Accents of spice and leather further broaden the palate of aromas. Rating: 90.

Sartori di Verona 2007 Valpolicella Classico Superiore, Veneto, Italy ($15) – Valpolicella was the Italian red wine of my youth. It was a wine of very little color, or character, and in austere vintages the acidity would burn your tongue. It’s still cheap, but somewhere along the way Valpolicella came of age. It is now a serious wine for those of you who love good wine that marries beautifully with food. Actually, the renaissance began when producers in this region of northern Italy decided to divert some of their finest Corvina grapes, which had been used primarily to make sturdy Amarone, to the production of Valpolicella. Almost overnight a wonderful transformation took place. The 2007 Sartori di Verona Valpolicella still sports fresh acidty, but with a fair amount of meat on those bones in the form of fleshy red fruit. The ’07 is big enough and rich enough to stand up to grilled red meats, and exhibits enough elegance and character to also serve with fine cheeses. Rating: 90.

Peter Lehmann 2010 Shiraz Cabernet Art Series, South Australia ($13)
– The Art Series wines from Peter Lehmann might imply a price premium, but the designation speaks to me more about value. The wines are relatively inexpensive, but have more oomph and complexity than most at the price point. The Shiraz Cab blend offers good intensity with aromas of blackberry and black cherry. It is nicely structured, with enough tannin and acid to provide a good foil for a variety of savory foods. Rating: 89.

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