“Wait, did you say that lovely, crisp Albariño is from Lodi?” A close look at the label confirmed the origin was indeed Lodi. “Estate Grown” no less. Because I wondered if this Albariño made by Oak Farm Vineyard was a rare exception or possibly the launching point into something worth sharing, I decided to get up to speed with what’s going on in Lodi today.
Albariño, I discovered, is showing the way, but Lodi is a hotbed of activity for a wide range of alternative, Anything-but-Chardonnay, white wines. I’m not talking about the obvious ones like Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc. The ones I’m curious about are wines like Grüner Veltliner, Fiano, Roussanne, Picpoul, Vermentino, Macabeo and many others that several free-thinking growers and innovative winemakers have been exploring. Especially interesting is the fact that most winemakers aim for a style that highlights bright, lively fruit, modest alcohol levels and balancing acidity. Food friendly and fun to drink. Yes, just the opposite of what one might expect from Lodi.
Old Vine Lodi
To most wine drinkers the name “Lodi” is automatically associated with big reds and big producers. Lodi is indeed a main hub for California Zinfandel, best known for its old vine Zins and, of course, Petite Sirahs. There’s also some amazing old Cinsault. It is the largest AVA of all, with close to 100,000 acres of vineyards, roughly the size of Napa and Sonoma combined. About 40% of all Zinfandel is grown in Lodi, and when you combine Zinfandel with Cabernet, Merlot and Chardonnay, you are talking about something like 40% of all “premium” wines grown in California. Well, however “premium” is defined, Mondavi’s popular “Woodbridge” wines are bottled in Lodi, and in addition to established custom crush companies based in Acampo, the Trinchero Family recently opened a facility that can easily bottle 30 million cases.
Lodi’s New Vines
When it comes to Lodi’s new-look white wines, Albariño has attracted the most interest, and in 2024 accounted for about one-third of all Albariño produced in California. Close to 150 varieties are cultivated in Lodi, which is astonishing, even in light of its size. New varieties have steadily been added each year over the last decade.
As for whites, it would be challenging to find one that isn’t planted there. Acquiesce, the hot new rising star focusing on white Rhône-based varieties, now offers wines made from Picpoul Blanc, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Viognier, Bourboulenc, and Clairette Blanche. Oak Farm offers a Falanghina and Fiano along with its Albariño. If you want to explore Assyrtiko, the Greek white from Santorini, Perlogos Wine Co. awaits you. Bokisch Vineyards Is deep into Spanish varieties and now produces Albariño, Garnacha Blanca, Verdejo, Macabeo and Xarel-Lo, a white variety mostly used for making Cava.
Even bigger, well-established wineries like Klinker Brick are into atypical white wines such as Grenache Blanc and Albariño, and the LangeTwins winery is working its magic with Grüner Veltliner. When replanting in the 1990s, Berghold went with Viognier as its only white rather than Chardonnay.
How is it Possible?
But one question that comes to mind is how Lodi, located 100 miles inland from the Pacific Ocean, can possibly achieve true success with white wines associated with cool climates (such as Albariño from Rías Baixas). That region sits above the Atlantic, is crisscrossed by rivers and fjord-like inlets, and is one of the rainiest places in all of Spain. Lodi is a bit dry, definitely warm, and the average elevation is 35 feet. A vineyard relied upon by Klinker Brick for its Grenache Blanc is actually 13 feet below sea level.
The standard explanation is that Lodi is located at the end of the Sacramento River Delta, which brings chilly, afternoon “delta breezes” to the area during the growing season. The Mokelumne River and several others mitigate the climate and create differing microclimates for grape growing. It does get warm in the summer, but diurnal fluctuations and cooler nights are also a real factor.
Another explanation not subject to the whims of nature is that many of Lodi’s wineries are run by growers who are multi-generational farmers, with many now in the hands of the third to sixth generation. A good example is the Lange family, which started out in the 1870s as farmers growing watermelons, purchasing their first vineyard in 1916. With Klinker Brick, Steve and Lori Felten, also fifth generation grape growers, are still cultivating old vine Zin that the family established in 1900. Michael David proudly announces it has “over 150 years of family farming” and is now in the hands of the 6th generation.
Lodi Rules
Additionally, a mantra heard over and over again when in the region is, “We respect the land.” A major turning point was the introduction of drip irrigation in the late 1980s, replacing the old flood irrigation approach. From then on, attention was given to control of vine vigor, health, and crop size. With that innovation changing things, Lodi’s growers and owners went on to develop the world’s first formal system of certified sustainability: LODI RULES for Sustainable Winegrowing. This detailed program, evolved from the Lodi Winegrower’s Workbook introduced in 1999, sets the bar high for sustainable vineyard practices and going green.
“Lodi Rules” is seen on so many labels. The Michael David Winery, best known for wines like “Freakshow,” is quick to point out that, “Our unconventional collection of wines are all responsibly grown in Lodi, California according to the Lodi Rules and its 100 strict standards.” Sustainable and organic farming are the norm for many of the newcomers as evidenced by Bokisch Vineyards. Founded in 1999 by Markus and Liz Bokisch, the winery has followed both sets of practices as it cultivates Spanish varieties.
Rules are rules, but when it comes down to growing these “alternative” white varieties, each one comes with its own challenges. There is no single formula, and growers need to adopt techniques suitable for each variety in every different site. Such attention to detail in the viticultural practices comes through clearly in the approach taken by Sue Tipton of Acquiesce. Roussanne, one of my favorite varieties, is, sadly, prone to all kinds of problems, ripens unevenly, and is generally difficult to work with. Dealing with her 2 acres of Roussanne, Tipton says: “Roussanne keeps us busy during the growing season. Our East-West orientation utilizes the Delta breeze, providing crucial airflow to keep the rot at bay. We also employ a special leafing technique that opens up cluster architecture and enhances the breeze effect, alongside other benefits.”
At Oak Farm Vineyard, with the 2023 Fiano, I was told that, “leaf removal took place on the north side of the rows to help with air flow.” Working with an old vineyard, Perlegos Family Wine Co. employs different techniques, including this clever seeming one: “The vines were planted in a diamond pattern, not a square, which allows soil tillage in multiple (more than 2) directions to eliminate competitive weeds while dry farming. It also provides more soil area per vine for root exploration. “
Adding all these factors up, we can conclude that although Lodi may be warm, its new white wines are cool. With its philosophy “to question, re-examine, and challenge the status quo,” Klinker Brick may also be the unofficial spokesperson for those wineries making these new white wines when it says: “We let terroir and climate dictate production rather than consumer data and market trends.”
Below are wines that sealed the deal for me. Several described below are bright, lively, well-balanced white wines that are often less than 13% alcohol, yet bursting with fruit. A few others are rich and plush but still balanced by good acidity. Regardless of the variety in question, I also became aware of another common feature: the absence of oak as a flavor component. Best of all, many turned out to be versatile food companions to be enjoyed at lunch or dinner. Overall, exploring a selection of Lodi’s new-look whites has been an unpredictable but enjoyable adventure. As a final note, one of the new Lodi wineries is named “Havin’ Fun Vineyards. Exploring new white wines from Lodi can indeed be fun.
LangeTwins Family Winery & Vineyards (Mokelumne River sub-AVA, Lodi) North River Vineyard Grüner Veltliner 2024 ($27): From the family’s 4.5 acres, the grapes were picked on August 18th and the wine was fermented entirely in stainless steel. The alcohol is a modest 12.5%. Impressive from the get-go with a bouquet of apple and nectarine with some citrus notes. Medium-bodied and smooth in texture, with flavors that combine melons and spice. The finish is long and leaves a final impression of fresh fruit. 159 cases made. 92
Klinker Brick Winery (Lodi) Grenache Blanc “Under the Sea” 2023 ($20): Made from a vineyard planted in 2011 that sits 13 feet below sea level, the wine is entirely stainless steel fermented and was lees aged for 31 days. First thing noted is that the color is a faint/pale straw. The nose starts out with direct lemon and some lime, and then the palate is big and plush. Peach and lime come through in the flavors, with notable freshness. Soft and creamy, the wine rides to a gentle finish with just enough acidity. Fun and ever so easy to drink. 1200 cases made. 91
Oak Farm Vineyards (Lodi) Estate Grown Fiano 2023 ($26): Bright, light yellow in the glass, this gets going with zesty scents of peach, honeydew and citrus. It is medium bodied and balanced, with flavors of peach and some lemon. Finishes with good length, and is not overly acidic. Overall, this leans toward being delicate, but is definitely a wine to enjoy with food. It was aged for 5 months in neutral oak on the lees, which may account for its slight creamy texture. 93
Acquiesce Winery (Mokelumne River, Lodi) Roussanne 2022 ($41): Harvested in late August from the estate’s 2 acres, this is remarkable in many ways. It keeps changing in the glass as it airs, and in the final analysis, is nuanced and balanced. The medium yellow color has a youthful green edge. The initial aroma of peach and jasmine takes on a hint of honeysuckle and tea. On the palate it is medium full-bodied, soft and smooth in texture, and the flavors of peach and green tea also have a mineral, chalky back note. There’s just enough acidity to add to the finish, which retains fresh fruit before providing a chalky aftertaste. Entirely stainless steel fermented and lees aged, it can be matched with your favorite main course suitable for pairing with white wine. 94
Bokisch Vineyards (Clement Hills sub-Ava, Lodi) Miravet Vineyard Macabeo 2023 ($25): Macabeo, also known as Viura, is the main white grape of Rioja. Not much is grown in California, and from its estate planting, Bokisch made only 80 cases. It is medium yellow in color and opens up to reveal a fresh cut pear aroma with light honeysuckle and spice undertones. Similar flavors are delivered in a medium-bodied package with smooth texture. This offers good concentration and finishes long with lots of pear fruit in the aftertaste. 90
Klinker Brick Winery (Mokelumne River sub-AVA, Lodi) Albariño 2024 ($19): Sourced from two independent vineyards that are major growers of Albariño, the winery fermented the two lots of grapes separately in stainless steel and blended them after elevage. Bottled relatively early, this wine is all about lively, youthful flavors. Pale yellow, it is fresh and with citrus and pear aromatics. It is light medium-bodied, and the flavors are crisp and uncomplicated, with a pleasing finish. A drink-now style. 89
Perlegos Family Wine Co. (Clement Hills sub-AVA, Lodi) Thera Block Assyrtiko 2023 ($29): From a small block that was grafted over to Assyrtiko a few years ago, this may well be the only wine made from this variety on the West Coast. It was whole cluster pressed and fermented in neutral French oak, then aged for 7 months. Beginning with its deep yellow color, this is one unusual wine. Lime and dried fruit along with a beeswax component define the bouquet. This is a big bodied, ultra plush wine with juicy tropical fruit flavors. It finishes with some acidity to help keep it on the dry side. 90
Bokisch Vineyards Clement Hills sub-AVA, Lodi) Miravet Vineyard Xarel-Lo 2023 ($25): Grown in Catalonia and included in Cava blends, this variety is unusual in many ways that are shown when it is vinified and bottled on its own, and is relatively low in alcohol. It displays light yellow color with a scent of subtle dried orange with other citrus-like notes. The entry is pleasing with a creamy mouthfeel, and the flavors are akin to subtle dried citrus fruits. The finish is dry with good acidity. 89
Acquiesce Winery (Mokelumne River sub-AVA, Lodi) Bourboulenc 2023 ($37): From the estate vineyard, the very first planted in the U.S. to this variety, the grapes were harvested in late September. The wine is stainless steel fermented and then lees aged until being bottled. In the glass, it is pale straw in color with delicate scents of lime and ginger. Nice and lively on the palate, it offers flavors of melon with some chalky nuances. Round and smooth in texture, it has a lengthy finish culminating in a chalky, lip-smacking finale. 91
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Photo: Stephanie Russo, Alina Tyulyu, and Goff Photography, Courtesy of Lodi Winegrape Commission