Vacation to me means sitting on a beach and imbibing something other than wine. Brazilian beach life is all about mingling, so as we sipped coconut milk and caiparinhas (this Mojito-like cocktail made with limes, sugar and Brazilian rum named Cachaça is the country’s signature drink) we slipped easily into surfside life.
Ever the wine lover, however, I made sure to sample the local product. Though Argentina and Chile to the southwest are much more famous than Brazil, the tropical country does produce ample amounts of vinhos. Brazil’s wine growing hub is clustered in the southeastern states of Rio Grande do Sul where varieties such as Riesling, Chardonnday, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon are planted. Several of the country’s largest producers have a presence in the United States, including Miolo and Salton, whose sparkling wine is crisp and clean.
Miolo in particular impressed me with its 2004 Limited Edition Merlot. Rich and complex, I thought French or Washington as I sipped it on our friend’s veranda overlooking the Brazilian city of Vittoria. No wonder, since iconic French winemaker Michel Rolland is a consultant at Miolo. I haven’t been able to locate this particular wine here, but Miolo has decent U.S. distribution of its affordable Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Cabernet/Merlot blends. For the adventurous wine hunter, Miolo’s U.S. importer is Florida-based Altamira Wines.
Besides Miolo, several other producers I’ve tasted recently stand out.
The first is Yangarra Estate Vineyard from McLaren Vale, South Australia. Part of the portfolio of Jess Jackson’s Wine Estates International division, Yangarra’s first wines debuted in 2000 and the winery has been racking up accolades ever since.
Winemaker Peter Fraser earned his stripes at Aussie top dog St. Hallett’s wines in the Barossa Valley, and then Normans Wines. He confessed to me that ‘winemaking is the easy part. Getting it right in the vineyard is what takes the work.’ (His hands-on attitude extends to personal hobbies such as surfing and raising his own cattle.)
What struck me about Peter’s wines were their depth and intensity coupled with finesse. These aren’t in-your-face, extracted Aussie fruit bombs; they express the temperate climate of maritime-influenced McLaren Vale. Less than an hour’s drive from the city of Adelaide, the McLaren Vale wine-growing region is bordered by the Gulf of St. Vincent and its nearby beaches.
From white to rose and red, Yangarra’s wines are well-priced, well-crafted and well worth it.
Another southern hemisphere star to seek out is Valentin Bianchi.
In 1928 Italian immigrant Bianchi started a winery in his adopted country of Argentina. Now his grandsons run the Mendoza property. They produce a value line of wines dubbed Elsa that rank among my favorite bargains, but at a recent tasting of their flagship wine Enzo, I was impressed with the ageworthiness of this Argentine red.
A Cabernet Sauvignon-based Bordeaux-style blend, Enzo has been made by California winemaker Robert Pepi since 1996. I sampled the wine back to the inaugural 1992 through the current release 2003 and was surprised by its depth and spectrum of flavors. The 1995 was particularly striking. Cabernet with 20 percent Malbec blended in, the ripe fruit character still showed through in what was an incredibly youthful wine.
Bob Pepi is the man behind the bottles at Bianchi, but if you’re a lover of powerfully built, sultry reds try his latest California release, Eponymous.
Pepi made a name for himself with his own California brand more than a decade ago, but since its sale he cannot use his own name, hence the moniker Eponymous. After tasting Bob’s work in Argentina, his winemaking thumbprint was apparent in his latest release, the 2004 Eponymous MacAllister red wine. I’m looking forward to sipping it alongside a Brazilian-style backyard barbeque.
Tasting Notes
Yangarra, McLaren Vale (Australia), Chardonnay 2006 ($15, Jackson Wine Estates International): I admit it, I’m a Chardonnay lover. From big and lush to crisp and taut, if they’re well-crafted, I’m the first one holding out my glass. One of the hottest wine trends right now is unoaked Chardonnay like this version from Yangarra. Fruit is the keyword, not oak. Mineral-laden with grapefruit and apple aromas, this white is refreshing. But there’s much more behind that smiling face. Winemaker Peter Fraser keeps the wine on lees in the tank to gain a lush layer of flavor and textural complexity. His attention to detail has paid off. 90
Yangarra, McLaren Vale (Australia), Rosé 2006 ($15, Jackson Wine Estates International): Dry and decadent, this a serious pink but also seriously fun to sip. A blend of Grenache and Shiraz, it’s spicy, deep and packed with pep. The bright acidity allows it to pair well with whatever is on your plate. Summer wine doesn’t speak any louder than this. 89
Yangarra, McLaren Vale (Australia), Old Vine Grenache 2005 ($25, Jackson Wine Estates International): One of the best expressions of pure Grenache I’ve tasted in the past several years. You could just get lost in the smell alone. Stick your nose in the glass and let the myriad scents take you away. Licorice, cinnamon, black cherry, earth, and pomegrante. Delicious. But it’s the texture that really tempts. Ultra smooth and plush but not overpowering. 93
Elsa Bianchi, Mendoza (Argentina), Chardonnay 2006 ($9, Quintessential LLC): When you crave Chardonnay (as I do) but don’t want to spend a fortune, stock up on Bianchi’s Chard. Sweet pear and lemon fruitiness is balanced with a touch of spice and mid-palate zip. Planning a summer party? You’ll want this crowd pleaser. 88
Elsa Bianchi, Mendoza (Argentina), Syrah 2006 ($9, Quintessential LLC): Though Malbec gets all the attention in Argentina, Syrah is coming on strong. With ripe fruit notes of plum and blackberry, this easy-drinking red is offset with high-altitude acidity that keeps the wine dancing on your palate. 86
Valentin Bianchi, Mendoza (Argentina), ENZO 2003 ($50, Quintessential LLC): A blend of 75 percent Cabernet Sauvignon with the balance Merlot and Malbec, this Bordeaux-style blend focuses on New World fruit but with a true sense of Old World elegance. Velvety and plush with impeccable poise, it’s drinkable now with decanting or age for up to a decade. 92
Eponymous, Sonoma Valley (California), MacAllister Red Wine 2004 ($45): Bob Pepi scores with his second vintage of Eponymous. Blending nearly 70 percent Cabernet Sauvignon with Cabernet Franc and Merlot, the sleekly-styled red still showcases intensity, extraction and depth. Aged 20 months in mostly new French oak the wine is refined and classy. It outshines wines with twice the price tag. 93
Top photo: Yangarra winemaker Peter Fraser, courtesy Yangarra Estate.