One of the greatest joys of wine appreciation is stumbling upon exceptional bottles from unexpected places. Venturing into unfamiliar territory can reward curious drinkers with outstanding quality, without the hefty price tag of more famous names. Exploring unsung regions also helps support small family businesses, up-and-coming producers, and young winemakers dedicated to preserving and revitalizing local winemaking traditions.
It’s a bit unfair to call Bulgaria an emerging wine region – after all, they’ve been making wine for thousands of years – but a visit there a few years back opened my eyes to the country’s modern winemaking renaissance. Hardly more than a generation ago, Bulgaria was one of the world’s most voluminous producers, but its fortunes changed dramatically when Soviet-style communism collapsed at the end of the 1980s. It’s taken a few decades to recover, but a new vanguard is striving to revive the country’s winemaking heritage, with a renewed eye towards quality, value, and sustainability.
Bulgaria has been making wine since 4,000 BC, when the country was part of the Kingdom of Thrace. The ancient Greek poet Homer praised the quality of Thracian wines in both The Iliad and The Odyssey, including one memorable scene where Odysseus employs a potent wine gifted to him by a Thracian priest to intoxicate and stage a daring escape from the cyclops Polyphemus. Thracian wines remained highly prized throughout Roman times, right up until the arrival of the Ottoman Empire in the 14th century. Islamic restrictions on alcohol consumption put a centuries-long damper on viticulture, but permission for non-Muslims to imbibe helped keep winemaking alive until Bulgaria gained its independence in 1878.
The communist revolution of 1944 nationalized Bulgaria’s wine industry. The regime abolished private property, seized vineyards and wineries, and centralized production under state control. Farmers began replacing native varieties with international grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Chardonnay, and state-run winemaking collectives set quotas that effectively mandated quantity over quality. Virtually all production went to the Soviet Union. Bulgaria sent so many bottles to the Soviets in the 1970s and 1980s that it became the world’s fourth largest wine exporter.
A trade agreement with PepsiCo, the makers of Pepsi Cola, brought Bulgarian wines to the international market at the end of the 1970s. Eager to expand into Eastern Europe, PepsiCo negotiated a deal to sell its Pepsi concentrate in Bulgaria in exchange for wine, which PepsiCo would then sell in the United States and western Europe. Skeptical of the wine’s quality, PepsiCo sent enologists from the University of California at Davis to work alongside Bulgarian winemakers. The collaboration lasted only a few years, but the knowledge and insights learned from these exchanges greatly benefited the evolution of Bulgarian wine.
The unravelling of the Soviet Union left Bulgaria’s wine industry in disarray. Moscow’s mid-1980s crackdown on rampant alcoholism struck the first blow, followed by the fall of the Bulgarian communist regime a few years later. Once Soviet funds dried up, the state-run collectives abandoned or destroyed thousands of vineyards. Bulgaria’s new government introduced free market reforms that restored vineyard ownership to those who held the land prior to 1944, but many former owners had long since moved away or wanted nothing to do with growing grapes. Efforts to revive the industry began gaining momentum in 2007, when Bulgaria entered the European Union and secured access to subsidies needed to consolidate and restore vineyards, rebuild crumbling infrastructure, and modernize outdated equipment.
Nestled between Romania to the north, Greece and Turkey to the south, Serbia and North Macedonia to the west, and the Black Sea to the east, Bulgaria’s diverse terrain and mix of Mediterranean and continental climates are suitable for many different grape varieties. International varieties grow widely in Bulgaria – a legacy of its communist past – but there is keen interest in resurrecting the country’s notable roster of indigenous grapes. One strategy for introducing local Bulgarian grapes to the global market has been to blend them with international varieties. Others see a niche opportunity in working exclusively with native grapes, convinced these varieties represent the heart and soul of Bulgarian wine. Here are five traditional Bulgarian varieties worth keeping an eye out for:
Dimyat: Bulgaria is largely red wine territory, but Dimyat, also known as Dimiat, is the country’s most popular white variety. Thought to be native to Bulgaria, Dimyat is a close relative of Chardonnay and Aligoté. It produces light-bodied, aromatic wines with crisp acidity and bright floral and citrus notes. Fresh and easy-drinking, Dimyat is particularly well-suited for Bulgaria’s hot summer days.
Mavrud: Arguably Bulgaria’s signature indigenous grape, Mavrud is known for its deep ruby color, robust tannins, and potential for aging. The wines are bold and structured, showcasing ripe, dark fruit flavors mixed with layers of peppery spice, tobacco, and leather.
Melnik: Bulgaria is home to several types of Melnik, two of which are the most common. Broadleaf Melink – named for the distinctively large leaves shown in the photo above – is a late-ripening variety that thrives in warm, sunny climates. The wines are medium-to-full bodied and have a dense concentration of black fruit and savory spices. Early Melnik, also known as Melnik 55, is a genetic cross between Broadleaf Melnik and the French grape Valdiguié. True to its name, Early Melnik ripens well before Broadleaf Melnik, and is lighter in body with softer tannins. Early Melnik often draws comparisons to Gamay.
Rubin: Created by Bulgarian enologists in the 1940s, Rubin is a genetic cross between Syrah and Nebbiolo. The wines feature black cherry, plum, and spice notes, framed by an herbal freshness and powerfully firm tannins that soften with age.
Gamza: Thought to be native to the Balkans, Gamza is a light-to-medium bodied wine with bright acidity, wispy tannins, red fruit flavors, and a touch of earthiness. Think Pinot Noir meets Gamay meets Grenache. Gamza is also popular in Hungary, where it goes by the name Kadarka.
When it comes to value, the quality-to-price ratio of Bulgarian wines is hard to beat. Even at the premium end of the spectrum, you’ll rarely see bottles over $30, and many are under $20. Unfortunately, most of us can’t simply pop down to our local grocery store and pick up a Rubin or Mavrud. The wines are slowly making their way onto the US market, but in many places, they’re still difficult to come by.
A handful of US importers specialize in wines from Bulgaria, including Bulgarian-born Nataliya Georgieva, who founded Washington, DC-based Bohemish Wines in 2021. Working exclusively with small, family-owned wineries, Georgieva imports roughly 20,000 bottles annually from more than a half dozen quality-minded Bulgarian producers, including a mix of international and native varieties as well as unique options like Pet-Nats and Orange Wines.
“The demand for Balkan wines is steadily growing,” says Georgieva, who is working to expand distribution outside the Washington, DC area, with plans for New York and Illinois. Although facing the same challenges as the industry overall – including wine’s waning popularity among younger drinkers and health-conscious individuals cutting back on alcohol – her goal is “to build greater recognition for Bulgarian wines and ensure they have a well-deserved place on the global wine map.”
At the time of writing, the wines below were available for purchase in the Washington, DC area. If you’re seeking a bottle elsewhere, large chains like Total Wine and Whole Foods sometimes stock one or two Bulgarian labels, but online retailers offer a wider selection (provided you live in a state that allows for direct shipping). Here are some wines to seek out:
Georgiev/Milkov, Thracian Valley (Bulgaria) Novi Izvor Vineyard Mavrud 2021 ($28, Bohemish Wines): Looking to offer a fresh take on wines from traditional Bulgarian varieties, winemakers and friends Petar Georgiev and Radostin Milkov launched Georgiev/Milkov in 2014. The pair source their fruit from the choicest vineyards, including this 40+ year-old site near the village of Novi Izvor, in the foothills of the Rhodope Mountains. The nose is dark and seductive, with layers of ripe black fruit, peppery spice, sweet tobacco, and a hint of thyme. Generous fruit and savory spices flood the palate, framed by grippy fine-grained tannins, vibrant acidity, and a sumptuous leathery finish. A respectable 13% alcohol rounds out this broodingly complex and well-balanced wine. 95
Georgiev/Milkov, Thracian Valley (Bulgaria) Brestovitsa Vineyard Rubin 2022 ($28, Bohemish Wines): A genetic cross of Syrah and Nebbiolo, Rubin combines Syrah’s rich fruit and spice with Nebbiolo’s bold structure. Sourced from the 40+ year-old Brestovitsa vineyard and aged for 10 months in a mix of French and Bulgarian oak, the nose unfolds with fragrant sour cherries, spiced plums, and crushed violets enveloped in a minty freshness. Medium-bodied, with pronounced chalky tannins and balanced acidity, the palate features redcurrants and raspberries, with dusty earth, clove, and sweet tobacco nuances. Savory herbal notes linger throughout the long and chewy finish. 91
Georgiev/Milkov, Thracian Valley (Bulgaria) “Mixtape” 2022 ($22, Bohemish Wines): Comprised of 50% Pamid, 25% Mavrud, and 25% Rubin, Georgiev/Milkov’s 2022 “Mixtape” is a playful blend of traditional Bulgarian varieties. More savory than fruity, the nose is an intriguing medley of wild strawberries, cherries, pomegranates, and dried herbs. If tasted blind, I might mistake this for Spanish Garnacha. On the palate, crunchy red berries float atop bright acidity, unimpeded by silky smooth tannins. Soft strawberries, sour cherries, and dried herbs dart in and out of the long, savory finish. 94
Libera Estate, Struma Valley (Bulgaria) Melnik 55 2019 ($23, Bohemish Wines): Southwestern Bulgaria is home to the hot and sunny Struma Valley, where Melnik is the flagship variety. Taking its name from an ancient Roman goddess of fertility and freedom, Libera Estate specializes in combining the traditional and contemporary sides of Bulgarian winemaking. This rendition of Melnik 55 opens with perfumed aromas of redcurrant, black cherry, spiced plum, black tea, and bay leaf. Juicy red and black fruit flavors light up the palate, lifted by a distinctly herbal freshness that persists through the finish. Very smooth, with good concentration and well-integrated tannins. 92
Bononia Estate, Danube Plain (Bulgaria) “Gomotartzi” Dimyat & Vermentino 2023 ($19, Bohemish Wines): Located along the banks of the Danube River, Bononia Estates is a boutique winery and resort in the far northwestern corner of Bulgaria. Named after a nearby village, their Gomotartzi wines reflect the unique terroir of the Danubian Plains. Grown and vinified on the estate, this blend of 75% Dimyat and 25% Vermentino sees no time in oak. Fruity yet mineral-driven on the nose, it brims with citrus zest, green apples, and apricots. Round and medium-bodied, the wine’s graceful acidity balances the surprisingly generous mid-palate. With character and textural complexity, this wine is a stunner at under $20. 94