With the 2018 vintage, Chianti Rùfina introduced a new level of classification, called “Terraelectae,” to sit atop their pyramid of quality. With the 2020 vintage the Chianti Rùfina producers upped their game again by showing just how distinctive and noteworthy this new category of wine is. In general, the 2020 Terraelectae are more refined with more suaveness and more complexity than the Terraelectae from the inaugural vintage. And despite the warmth of the 2020 vintage, the Terraelectae overall maintain freshness with enlivening acidity.
A little background helps explain what’s going on here.
The wines from Chianti Rùfina, a unique, high-quality subregion of the greater Chianti area, are overshadowed by those from its larger and better-known neighbor, Chianti Classico. In an attempt to change that, and to show the world what distinctive wines they could make, Rùfina producers created a new category of wine, Terraelectae, which translates as “choice” or “noble” lands. Terraelectae will sit at the pinnacle of the Chianti Rùfina quality pyramid, above Riserva, just as Gran Selezione sits atop Chianti Classico’s quality pyramid.
Regulations for Terraelectae are stricter than those for Chianti Classico’s Gran Selezione. The wines must come from a single vineyard that’s owned or leased and fully managed by the producer. Each producer in Chianti Rùfina—there are only about 20 of them—can select a single vineyard for their Terraelectae bottling. The wines must be made entirely from Sangiovese, which means that Terraelectae wines, along with Brunello di Montalcino, are the only Tuscan wines that must use Sangiovese exclusively.
Additionally, Terraelectae wines must be made from a 25-percent lower yield (about 3 tons/acre compared to 4.25 for Riserva) and undergo additional aging—30 months of aging compared to 24 for Riserva—prior to release, 18 of which must be in barrel. Individual producers determine the specifics of barrel-aging, as in vessel size. The wines must then rest and age in bottle for at least six months prior to release.
Wines labeled Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, in comparison, must come from a producer’s own vineyards, but not necessarily a single vineyard, without incorporation of purchased grapes, and must have a minimum of 80 percent of Sangiovese in the blend. Other indigenous red grapes can fill out the blend. Just as Chianti Classico features Gran Selezione prominently on the label, Chianti Rùfina’s top bottles will carry the Terraelectae designation as well as the name of the vineyard. A future requirement for Terraelectae wines will be that they are produced from organically grown grapes.
Chianti Rùfina, despite producing enticingly savory and fresh wines from its small area, always fights for a place at the table, so it’s not surprising that they created Terraelectae to combat their under-rated status. Chianti Classico, for example, produces at least ten times as much wine from 15 times as many producers. Habitually confused with large Chianti producer Ruffino, the Rùfina Consorzio placed an accent on the “u” in the 1970s to explain proper pronunciation even to Italians.
Federico Giuntini Masseti, president of the Chianti Rùfina Consorzio, says that the purpose of Terraelectae is to highlight the special character of the Sangiovese-based wines from Rùfina’s unique terroir. Chianti Rùfina producers with whom I’ve spoken hope that the Terraelectae category will eventually propel Chianti Rùfina as a whole into the top echelons of Tuscan DOCGs, such as Brunello di Montalcino.
The wines from Chianti Rùfina in general, and the Terraelectae in particular, are distinct from other Chianti subregions. A cooler climate due to the Rùfina’s higher elevation and more rugged topography imbues the wines with a sleek, savory aspect and enormous energy. Faye Lotero, owner of Fattoria Lavacchio, a leading Rùfina estate, believes that the region’s elevation and wind-swept terroir give Chianti Rùfina an advantage in relation to climate change. Gerardo Gondi of the Tenuta Bossi, another of the region’s leading estates, describes them succinctly as “mountain Chianti.”
With the initial 2018 vintage, 10 producers—fewer than half of all Rùfina producers—bottled a single-vineyard Chianti Rùfina Riserva as a Terraelectae. The wines first were certified as DOCG Chianti Rùfina Riserva by Italian wine regulators. Then, a group of Chianti Rùfina producers themselves assessed the wines to be sure that they conformed to a high standard. Those that passed—not all did—were allowed to sport Terraelectae on the label. It’s worth emphasizing that the producers themselves, not a regulatory authority, have created the rules and judge the quality and character of the wines. It was clear from my discussions that some producers who submitted wines initially were asked to wait a year or two, presumably to refine quality, before being allowed to use the Terraelectae designation. So, with the 2020 vintage, 13 estates have been certified to produce a Terraelectae.
The Wines
While some of these wines are engaging, and quite drinkable, now because of their suaveness, all will gain complexity with bottle age and develop beautifully over the next decade. In short, these are wines for the cellar. Most of the 2020 Terraelectae, indicated as n/a in the notes below, have not made it to our shores. When available, I have given prices as noted by winesearcher.com of the 2018s as a point of reference.
Fattoria Selvapiana, always a leader in Chianti Rùfina, shows their talent with a powerful and lithe 2020 Terraelectae, “Vigneto Erchi.” A silky, glossy texture just adds to its appeal and allows for immediate enjoyment, though its balance and depth suggest a long and graceful evolution. ($54 for the 2018; drink now – 2040). 96
With greater refinement without losing any substance, Colognole’s suave 2020 Terraelectae, “Vigneto Le Rogaie,” is even better than their excellent 2018 ($52 for the 2018; drink 2026 – 2036). 95
Vinae Montae waited until 2020 to release their sensational Terraelectae, “Vigneto Il Monte.” Poised, elegant and restrained, it nonetheless explodes on the palate. Pure and firm, it’s the epitome of refined and expressive Sangiovese in the right terroir (Currently n/a; drink 2027- 2047). 95
With a darker profile, Fattoria Lavacchio’s dense 2020 Terraelectae “Vigna Casanova,” a vineyard they planted in 1963, delivers a black cherry essence supported by a youthful structure ($64 for the 2018; drink 2028 – 2038). 94
Frascole’s captivating 2020 Terraelectae, “Vigna alla Stele,” displays a gorgeous combination of dark cherry-like ripeness intertwined with what I like to call ‘not just fruit’ character. Although its suave texture makes it immediately appealing, it will have a lot more to deliver with proper cellaring (Currently n/a; drink now – 2040). 94
Podere Il Pozzo waited until 2019 to release their first Terraelectae, “Vigna Il Fiorino,” so their explosive 2020 represents only their second effort. What a success! Dark cherries, spice and a hint of alluring wildness come together in the finely balanced, but youthful, expression of Chianti Rùfina (Currently n/a; drink 2026 – 2040). 94
With the 2020 vintage, Grignano Tenuta Inghirami opted to bottle “Vigna Montefiesole” instead of their Vigna Poggio Gualteri, which they had previously bottled as a Terraelectae with the 2018 and 2019 vintages. A combination of spicy black cherry-like notes, good weight, and enlivening freshness makes their 2020 Terraelectae, “Vigna Montefiesole,” an easy choice. The interplay of fruit and spice dazzles the palate while the suave texture, again, allows current enjoyment. (Currently n/a; drink now – 2040). 93
Perhaps the largest leap in quality from 2018 to 2020 goes to I Veroni’s complex and now suave 2020 Terraelectae, “Vigneto Quona.” The combined red/black fruit and spice in the 2020 is like that of the 2018, but the structure, with finer tannins, has been polished. Still youthful, it is easy to see its fine trajectory. And a bargain to boot. ($25; drink 2026 – 2040). 93
Villa Travignoli’s dense 2020 Terraelectae, “Vigna Colonneto,” follows in the footsteps of their very fine 2018: savory aromatics intertwined with cherry-like notes and finished with alluring and balancing bitter ones. Fine tannins lend support without intruding (Currently n/a; drink 2026 -2040). 93
Tenuta Bossi Marchese Gondi’s plush 2020 Terraelectae, “Vigna Poggio Diamante,” manages to convey ripe dark cherry-like fruitiness supported by firm, not hard, tannins without going overboard (Currently n/a; drink 2028 – 2045). 92
Fattoria Il Capitano opted to delay their participation in the Terraelectae project until 2019. Their packed and tightly wound 2020 Terraelectae, “Vigneto Poggio,” displays youthful structure that mellows slowly with air allowing its stature to reveal itself (Currently n/a; drink 2028-2038). 91
. . .
The key to success of the Terraelectae project will be a continuation of the overall improvement seen between the 2018 and 2020 vintages with more producers signing on with high-quality distinctive wines. Continued self-policing by producers will ultimately determine whether Terraelectae becomes established as a benchmark of quality or just a marketing ploy. The success of the 2020 Terraelectae wines indicates that it just might become a benchmark.
. . .
E-mail me your thoughts about Chianti Rùfina in general and Terraelectae in particular at [email protected] and follow me on X (formerly Twitter) and Instagram @MichaelApstein
Photo by Michael Apstein
October 23, 2024