Wine writers are a lucky lot. Getting to travel the world eating and drinking is simply the best job around. But, occasionally we get fussy. After spending more than a decade globetrotting, I’ve often heard (and said myself) under-the-breath comments including, ‘Please don’t show me yet another stainless steel tank’ or ‘That’s a lovely bottling line.’
Not that we’re not appreciative of the work we do, it’s just that the majority of winemaking facilities are geared toward function rather than beauty. To walk the vineyards with the winemaker exploring soil, microclimate, and topography is the way to understand what’s in the bottle.
Sometimes, though, you visit a winery that truly says something about the wine. Alvaro Palacios’s ultra-stylish winery in the Priorat region of Spain is the architectural version of his polished, glimmering wine L’Ermita. Craggy Range winery in New Zealand, with its European feel set in rugged Kiwi country brings to life the class and intensity of Craggy’s single-vineyard wines. Opus One in Napa Valley is the marriage of modern California with traditional French accents, much like the famed cuvée itself.
A property I just visited atop Washington’s Red Mountain falls into
this impressive class. Sure, it’s a showpiece where no expense was spared, but most importantly, Col Solare’s new winery echoes the multi-cultural influence of its creators.
Col Solare is a partnership between Italy’s Marchese Piero Antinori and the company that owns Washington’s Chateau Ste. Michelle. It’s the name of a singular Bordeaux-style wine and, now, a special place.
The winery’s bell tower looks like a transplant from Tuscany. Curved walls are reminiscent of those you might see in an ancient castle, but the lines of the rest of the building are clean and contemporary. Vineyards–40 acres of them–radiate out down the slope of the hill like rays of the sun. After all, Col Solare means ‘shining hill.’
‘The reality is better than the dream,’ said Piero Antinori as he cut the ribbon to the property with expansive views of Mt. Adams, Mt. Rainier and the Horse Heaven Hills. The project began as a marriage of the Old World and the New World more than 12 years ago and the final result is a wine and place that expresses both.
As Ste. Michelle Wine Estates’ President/CEO Ted Baseler notes, ‘We’re thrilled where we’re at today, but look forward to where we’re going. We know Red Mountain will be a tremendous place to grow grapes and make world-class wine. It’s just a matter of time.’
Red Mountain AVA
Flying low to the ground so we could catch a glimpse of the new winery from above, there was no mistaking we were in eastern Washington. While Seattle is green and wet, the eastern side of the Cascade Mountain range is dry, very dry. Irrigation is what has turned this seemingly barren parcel of earth into wine country.
Tucked away in the Yakima Valley, part of the larger Columbia Valley, Red Mountain (mountain is a strong word since it’s more like a 1,500 foot high hill) is Washington’s smallest appellation with 4,000 acres total and only 700 of those planted. It is home to several of the state’s best vineyards–Klipsun and Ciel du Cheval–whose fruit goes into wines made by famous Washington producers including Quilceda Creek, DeLille and McCrea.
Fruit from Red Mountain is known for bold, concentrated flavors with strong tannins. One of the warmest spots in the state, it still benefits from Washington’s blessed cold nights that allow grapes to ripen fully while maintaining their vibrant acidity.
Up until the 2005 vintage, which is still in barrel, Col Solare fruit was sourced from other areas of the state, but within the next five to seven years the wine will be 100% estate fruit from Red Mountain.
The Partnership
I remember sitting at a tasting in Napa Valley nearly a decade ago when one of the first Col Solare wines was released. It was impressive then and has only gotten better during the intervening years. When you have a partnership of what amounts to two wine superpowers, the wine better be good.
Piero Antinori’s family has Italian winemaking roots dating back 26 generations. As the oldest winery in America’s Northwest (think closer to 60 years than Antinori’s 600), Chateau Ste. Michelle is a formidable force, too.
In addition to Chateau Ste. Michelle, brands in the Ste. Michelle Wine Estates lineup include Columbia Crest, Northstar (which ranks among my top Merlots worldwide), Conn Creek in Napa Valley and Erath in Oregon. The company focuses on quality in all price ranges. Antinori does the same. From value-priced Tuscan reds to Piero’s legendary Super Tuscans, Tignanello and Solaia, I’ve consistently rated Antinori’s portfolio as one of the best in the world.
Antinori’s chief winemaker, Renzo Cotarella, comes from Italy four times per year to work with Col Solare’s winemaking team of Doug Gore and Marcus Notaro. His influence can be seen from vineyard decisions (the new ones are planted at high density like Antinori’s Tuscan and Umbrian properties) to the ultimate blend.
While Col Solare is a traditional, Cabernet Sauvignon-based Bordeaux blend with Merlot, Petite Verdot, and Cabernet Franc, there was a vintage (2002) with a dash of Syrah thrown in. I adored the plushness it imparted to the wine. Notaro smiled when I asked him whether they’ll ever add it to the mix again. He did mention they have a small parcel of it planted so we’ll see.
In the meantime, I believe Col Solare has evolved into what Baseler calls, ‘Washington wine with a Tuscan soul.’
‘It’s changed since the initial 1995 vintage,’ said Cotarella as he summed up where the project has been and where it’s going. ‘We have more knowledge of Washington, our different growers and their overall styles. But, with our own vineyards on Red Mountain we will be able to express great personality over time. We don’t know its full potential yet, but we will in five years or so.’
Taking a sip of Col Solare on the steps of the property he said, ‘In Italy we’ve had the luxury of time to make great wine. Here we can do it do, too. We just need to be patient and listen more than talk.’
The Wine
At the opening of the winery in April, I had a chance to revisit the beautiful 1996 Col Solare. With 10 years of aging the wine was silky and nuanced but still showed vibrancy and freshness. I tasted the concentrated 2005 vintage in barrel (with 20% of the fruit from Red Mountain) and think it will have this sort of staying power.
In the meantime, look for the current release 2003 and jump on the 2004 when it is released in July 2007.
Col Solare, Columbia Valley (Washington) 2003 ($75): From vineyards including Cold Creek and Horse Heaven Hills, this blend of predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot shows a smoky, spicy quality from 40% new American oak barrels. The fruit is dark and brooding with tannins that need time to soften. Acidity is apparent but will help the wine age and maintain its freshness. Drink now but decant, or age up to 10 years. 91
Col Solare (Columbia Valley, Washington) 2004 ($75): Plush and velvety already, this wine juxtaposes power with elegance. Acidity is less apparent than in the 2003 though there is plenty of it to age the wine a decade or more. Tannins are noticeable but supple and the fruit is ripe and lush. With an increase in French oak barrels used, the wine seems more balanced at this point. A beauty. 94