During this time of year, most of us will be buying and/or drinking Champagne. For me, the Holiday Season, culminating with New Year’s Eve, is such a special time that I serve only the real thing, Champagne, from the Champagne region of France.
On the other hand, it’s also not the time to drink costly vintage and prestige cuvée Champagnes, either, unless the gathering numbers two to six, all of whom appreciate fine bubblies. What could be more painful than seeing your brother-in-law, who couldn’t care less what he’s drinking, guzzling down your Dom Pérignon?
When I visit my friends–and relatives–homes, I invariably bring non-vintage Champagne, also known as “classic” Champagne. Non-vintage Brut makes up the largest and least-expensive category of Champagne; 85 to 90 percent of all Champagne sold throughout the world is non-vintage Brut. Retail prices for this category generally are in the $25 to $50 range for a standard 750ml bottle. When it’s available, I’ll often bring a magnum (1.5 liter) because it just looks more impressive, and Champagne stays fresher in the larger bottle.
Non-vintage Champagne, by necessity, is the bread-and-butter of the Champagne business. The Champagne region is so northerly that its climate is marginal for grape growing. On average, only four or five vintages each decade are warm enough for making vintage Champagne, providing grapes so ripe that they can stand alone without being blended with wines from other years (although the climate throughout Europe clearly has been warmer than usual since 1989).
The Champenoise concluded long ago that if they wanted to stay in business, they had to combine wines from several years to compensate for all those vintages when the climate is poor. In the 18th and 19th centuries, these so-called “non-vintage” Champagnes were the only type sold.
Most Champenois avoid the term “non-vintage” because they believe that vintage-conscious consumers, especially Americans, might think something is wrong with non-vintage wines. Rémi Krug of Champagne Krug insists on calling his Krug Grande Cuvée a “multi-vintage” Champagne; “non-vintage” is a misnomer, he argues, since there are several vintages in his Champagne. Nonetheless, the cumbersome term “multi-vintage” has not caught on. But you will never see the words “non-vintage” on a non-vintage Champagne, either; what you’ll sometimes see is the word “Classic,” such as in “Deutz Classic Brut.” Champagne producers invariably refer to their non-vintage Bruts as “classic Bruts.” Their rationale for the term is that this type of Champagne was the original–and for many years the only–type of Champagne produced.
“Brut” Champagne (which is supposedly very dry–although some Brut Champagnes are definitely drier than others) is by far the largest-selling type of Champagne in the world. “Extra Dry” Champagne, which is less dry than Brut, sells quite well in the U.S.–Moët & Chandon’s White Star is a leading example–but is practically non-existent throughout the rest of the world. “Demi-sec” Champagne, which is fairly sweet, has a limited market. There is also a very small category called “Ultra Brut” (aka Brut Zero) that is even drier than Brut, but Laurent-Perrier is the only major brand that markets an Ultra Brut. Several small grower-producers, such as Egly-Ouriet, do produce Brut Zero Champagnes, but these Champagnes can be so dry and austere that they are not to everyone’s taste.
The current non-vintage Champagnes that have been released this year are, in general, a bit on the light side; many of them are based on the 2001 vintage, not a very good vintage in the Champagne region. Of course, all of the producers do add reserve wines from older vintages to strengthen the blend, which also gives it more maturity.
I recently tasted a group of 14 non-vintage (classic) Champagnes from major producers whose Champagnes can be found throughout the U.S. (Prices are approximate; Champagne prices vary considerably throughout the country):
Bollinger, Champagne (France) Special Cuvee Brut NV ($45-$48, Paterno Imports): Bollinger produces one of the driest, most full-bodied NV Champagnes available. It is complex in flavor and biscuity, with a touch of honey and bready yeast. The Special Cuvée is dominated by 75 percent black grapes (60 percent Pinot Noir, 15 percent Pinot Meunier) with 25 percent Chardonnay. It is capable of aging for several years, and becomes more toasty with age. The perfect main course dinner Champagne. One of the most consistently reliable NV Champagnes, and always one of my favorites. 92
Deutz, Champagne (France) Brut Classic NV ($30-$32, Maisons Marques & Domaines): In its NV Brut, Deutz uses the classic blend of 70 percent black grapes (38 percent of which is Pinot Noir) and 30 percent Chardonnay. Deutz’s house style, as shown in its Brut Classic, emphasizes elegance along with fruitiness, with a touch of lemon and apple on the palate. It is medium-bodied, clean and fresh, with a creamy texture. Hard not to like. 88
Gosset, Champagne (France) Grande Reserve Brut NV ($55, Palm Bay Imports): Gosset makes two NV Champagnes; although its Brut Excellence sells for $15 to $20 less than its Grande Réserve, the latter is so fine that it merits the extra cost. The Grande Réserve, made from half Grand Cru and half Premier Cru grapes (46 percent Chardonnay, 38 percent Pinot Noir, 16 percent Pinot Meunier), really is on a level with expensive prestige cuvée Champagnes. It is dry, full-bodied, complex and intensely flavored. This powerhouse, which ages for five years before it is released from the winery, does not go through malolactic fermentation, which adds to its acidity and its excellent longevity. Definitely a Champagne to have with dinner. 93
Charles Heidsieck, Champagne (France) Brut Reserve NV ($45, Rémy Cointreau USA): The renaissance at Charles and Piper-Heidsieck began with the hiring of the late, brilliant Daniel Thibault as cellarmaster, and is continuing with his successor, Régis Camus. No other house has improved so dramatically in the last 20 years as Charles Heidsieck, from a mediocre under-achiever to one of the finest houses in Champagne. The Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve, like all of the Champagnes in this line, is masterful. Composed of 75 percent Pinot Noir/Meunier and 25 percent Chardonnay, its secret lies in the fact that it contains about 40 percent older reserve wines from eight different vintages. Krug does the same thing, but it costs more than twice as much! The Brut Réserve is richly flavored, nutty, dry, and biscuity. You clearly can taste the older wines in the blend of this powerful Champagne. Definitely worth the price. 92
Jacquesson, Champagne (France) Cuvee 729 Brut NV ($32, SDG Selections): Jacquesson, one of the fine, smaller Champagne houses that deserves to be better known, has even gotten better in the last five years. It has always produced one of the great-value prestige cuvées (Signature Brut and Signature Brut Rosé) and now it has improved its NV Brut. Its Cuvée 729, which replaces its NV Perfection Brut, will have a new number with each new NV Cuvée (a brilliant idea) and so we will now be able to compare Jacquesson’s different NV Brut releases,. Jacquesson supplies 60 percent of its grapes from its own vineyards, with especially strong holdings in the Grand Cru village of Avize, on the Côte des Blancs. The Cuvée 729 embodies the Jacquesson house style; it is fairly light-bodied and elegant, with lots of finesse. Although only 35 percent Chardonnay, this variety dominates the blend. A great apéritif Champagne! Worth the search. 91
Laurent-Perrier, Champagne (France) Brut L-P NV ($31, Laurent-Perrier, Inc.US): Although I love this large house’s Grand Siècle (one of the great-value prestige cuvées), and its ’96 Vintage Brut and NV Ultra Brut are very fine, I’ve never been a big fan of its rather light-bodied L-P NV Brut. Made from 45 percent Chardonnay, 40 percent Pinot Noir and 15 percent Pinot Meunier, I do enjoy its fresh, lemony flavors. 87
Moët & Chandon, Champagne (France) Brut Imperial NV ($37, Moët Hennessy USA): Moët’s NV Brut Impérial is the largest-selling Champagne in the world. Considering how much is produced, I’m amazed by Impérial’s quality and consistency from year to year. Made from 50 percent Pinot Noir, 40 percent Pinot Meunier and 10 percent Chardonnay, it is medium-bodied, quite toasty, with mature flavors, and is fairly dry. 89
Mumm, Champagne (France) Cordon Rouge Brut NV ($30, Pernod Ricard): There’s been quite a bit of excitement lately at Mumm, with the release of its new NV Grand Cru Brut this year and its new ’96 Prestige Cuvée next year. Meanwhile, its standard NV Cordon Rouge Brut has improved under the tutelage of new cellarmaster Dominique DeMarville. It is medium-bodied, fresh, with good acidity. 88
Bruno Paillard, Champagne (France) Premiere Cuvee Brut NV ($38, Bruno Paillard USA; Martin Scott wines): Bruno Paillard’s NV Brut Premiére Cuvée is the classic apéritif Champagne: it is refreshingly dry (a true Brut!), with floral aromas and clean, fresh, lemony flavors. Made from 45 percent Pinot Noir, 33 percent Chardonnay and 22 percent Pinot Meunier, it is so light and delicate that it’s a delight to drink. 90
Piper-Heidsieck, Champagne (France) Cuvée Brut, NV ($29, Rémy Cointreau USA): Ten years ago, I wouldn’t have even bothered to review Piper-Heidsieck’s NV Cuvée Brut. Today, it is one of the better-value, quality NV Bruts that you can buy. Composed of 55 percent Pinot Noir, 30 percent Pinot Meunier and 15 percent Chardonnay, it has rather intense floral and citrusy aromas and flavors. With its fire-engine red label, Piper is fresh, lively, and easy-drinking, ideal for serving at parties and large gatherings. 89
Pol Roger, Champagne (France) Brut Réserve NV ($29, Frederick Wildman and Sons): One of the great aspects of Pol Roger’s NV Brut is that it really improves with two or three years of aging. All Pol Roger Champagnes age well, as I’ve discovered with their Vintage Bruts and Blanc de Chardonnays. Pol Roger’s NV Brut, one-third each of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay, is medium-bodied, toasty, and well-balanced, and is versatile enough to serve as an apéritif or with dinner. 89
Louis Roederer, Champagne (France) Brut Premier NV ($40-$42, Maisons Marques & Domaines): Louis Roederer’s Brut Premier, dense and full-bodied, really defines its house style more than its stylish, complex medium-weight Cristal. Roederer’s Vintage Bruts, for example, are invariably closer in style to the NV Brut Premier than to Cristal. Composed of 62 percent Pinot Noir, 8 percent Pinot Meunier and 30 percent Chardonnay, the Brut Premier is rich and medium dry, with aromas and flavors of apple and pear. 89
Taittinger, Champagne (France) Brut La Française NV ($33-$34, Kobrand): Taittinger recently introduced a new NV Brut, Prelude, made from all Grand Cru grapes (about $70). Prelude is closer in style to Taittinger’s magnificent Blanc de Blancs, the medium-bodied Comtes de Champagne. Its standard NV Brut, the La Française, is light-bodied and elegant; its floral aromas and soft, fresh, delicate style make it suitable as an apéritif Champagne. 88
Veuve Clicquot, Champagne (France) “Yellow Label” Brut NV ($39-$43, Moët Hennessy USA): The famous Yellow Label NV Brut has been so phenomenally successful, especially in the U.S., that Veuve Clicquot is now second only to Moët & Chandon in sales throughout the world. The success has come at a price. Although Veuve Clicquot’s Gold Label Vintage Brut and its prestige cuvee, La Grande Dame, are still top-notch, the full-bodied Yellow Label, 72 percent black grapes (56 percent of which is Pinot Noir) and 28 percent Chardonnay, is not so rich and concentrated as it used to be 20 years ago. It does improve with a couple of years of cellaring, which suggests that it’s being released too soon, in order to satisfy market demands. 86