Jumping into the glacial blue water 200 feet below I thought to myself, ‘I love New Zealand!’ Where else can you sample dozens of wines then toss yourself from a bridge?
That’s exactly what I did on a recent trip to New Zealand’s Central Otago region. When winemaker Tim Morrison-Deaker of The Wine House took me to taste a roundup of various regional wines, I inquired about one he made dubbed ‘Freefall.’ He simply pointed to the nearby river and said it was named for the famous bungee 
jumping bridge down the road. I admitted bungee jumping was on my life ‘to do’ list and Tim’s face lit up. So, after getting the ‘work’ portion of the morning done–sampling a lineup of nearly 40 wines including Freefall–off we went to actually freefall. Some would call this crazy (my husband for one), while others might smile and think…only in Kiwi country.
Grapes and Places to Know
New Zealand is a special place. Comprised of two islands–north and south–this small nation is home to majestic mountains, pristine beaches, and world class wines. From famous Sauvignon Blanc to rising stars such as Riesling and Pinot Noir, exploring New Zealand’s wines should be on every wine lover’s ‘to do’ list.
Sauvignon Blanc:
New Zealand’s signature grape is a star in the South Island region of Marlborough. With pungent citrus flavors and fresh herbal aromas, its unique style has garnered fans worldwide. ‘SB,’ as it’s often called, is also produced in other spots from north to south, yet it reaches its pinnacle of character in Marlborough.
Chardonnay:
Chardonnay drinkers take heart. There are many styles to sample, including crisp yet rich versions from the North Island’s Auckland, Gisborne, and Hawkes Bay areas. For those who enjoy bright, fruity Chards reminiscent of French Chablis, many wineries are producing “unoaked” styles.
Riesling:
I have been extremely impressed by the quality of Riesling emerging from New Zealand. If you are a lover of unique styles from light and bone dry to lush and sweet, seek out versions from the Canterbury/Waipara (‘why-para’) region on the country’s South Island. Riesling, Gewurztraminer and other aromatic white varieties shine in both Marlborough and the neighboring region of Nelson, as well.
While whites have driven interest in New Zealand wines, there is palpable excitement these days over reds including Pinot Noir, Syrah and Merlot.
Pinot Noir:
The real purpose of my trip in January of this year was not to bungee jump, but to speak on a panel at Pinot Noir 2007, a three-day event attended by many of the world’s top Pinot Noir experts and passionate consumers. (If you’d like to attend the next one, check out www.pinotnoir2007.co.nz).
Pinot is certainly the buzz among Kiwis. Plantings have increased by 843% since 1996, and exports of the wine are up more than 1000% since 2001. It’s still a drop in the sea of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, but gaining ground.
The classic home of New Zealand Pinot Noir is the North Island’s Martinborough area. For trendy Pinot Noir aficionados desiring aromatic, complex wines, look to the South Island region of Central Otago. As the world’s most southerly wine region, conditions are extreme. Pockets of vineyards are framed by 
snowcapped mountains and the cosmopolitan city of Queenstown anchors the country’s outdoor adventure destination.
Pinot Noir (as well as Riesling and Pinot Gris) thrive in this tough-love environment.
Not to be outdone in the Pinot department, intense versions are also emerging from Canterbury/Waipara and Marlborough.
Syrah and Merlot:
Syrah and Merlot-based blends have found a home in the temperate, seaside area of Hawkes Bay on the North Island. Look specifically for “Gimblett Gravels” on the bottle for extra special complexity that comes from grapes grown on an old, gravelly riverbed.
Producers to Know
When shopping, keep these top-notch wine brands in mind:
–Great value producers include Brancott, Matua Valley, Villa Maria, Nobilo, and Spy Valley.
–Harder to find but worth the search are Peregrine, Mountford, Mills Reef, Mt. Difficulty, Amisfield, Bell Hill, Trinity Hill, Daniel Schuster and Two Paddocks.
–Fun brands that embrace the Kiwi spirit are Freefall, Kim Crawford, Kemblefield, and Muddy Water.
–Finally, three producers that rank among my world-wide favorites include powerhouse Pegasus Bay located in Canterbury/Waipara, Central Otago’s elegant Felton Road and the amazing Hawkes Bay-based winery, Craggy Range.
Current Release Wine Recommendations:
Take a vinous tour of New Zealand by region and variety with these winning wines:
North Island (from north to south):
Kumeu River, Kumeu (New Zealand) Chardonnay “Village” 2005 ($19, Wilson Daniels): Winemaker Michael Brajkovich is a Master of Wine (MW) and a Chardonnay master. He crafts Burgundian-style wines highlighting minerality and taut acid layered with ripe tropical fruit notes. 90
Villa Maria, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Chardonnay “Unoaked” Private Bin 2006 ($15, Vineyard Brands): Villa Maria Private Bin series consistently ranks among my top picks for affordable wines. It’s one of New Zealand’s strongest exports and for good reason–the wine’s are delicious. The unoaked style of this Chardonnay will appeal to lovers of crisp, classy whites who enjoy actually drinking Chardonnay with dinner. 90
Craggy Range, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Syrah “Le Sol” Gimblett Gravels Vineyard 2004 ($60, Kobrand): Craggy Range has to be one of the most impressive wineries anywhere in the world. The facility in Hawkes Bay, however, is not simply a showplace; what emerges from the cellar is just as impressive as the structure itself. This Syrah expresses the potential of what the variety can do in gravelly soils and a moderate climate. Intense, concentrated, smoky, peppery and rich, it captures the sexy, sultry quality of Syrah while maintaining its Kiwi identity. 95
Palliser Estate, Martinborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2005 ($20, Negociants USA): A real deal. Palliser is a recognized and respected name in Martinborough and this Pinot show why–it’s smooth, silky and stylish. Short-term aging would be fine, but why? It’s drinking beautifully now offering pleasure in a glass. 90
Craggy Range (Martinborough, New Zealand) Te Muna Road Vineyard Pinot Noir 2005 ($35, Kobrand): Focusing exclusively on single-vineyard wines, Craggy Range takes the concept of terroir to a new level in New Zealand. Their Te Muna Pinot is one of my perennial favorites due to its marriage of New World fruit and Old World earth. Floral aromas and sweet cherry fruit flavors are accented by scents of tea leaves and dried spice. 92
South Island (from north to south):
Kim Crawford, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($17, Constellation): When I think of New Zealand SB, this wine is what comes to mind. Sassy, herbal-scented and packed with lime and pink grapefruity freshness, it’s simply fun to sip. Widely available, it’s a wine to buy by the case. Serve it in summer poolside, in spring with fresh asparagus, in fall with grilled seafood, and in winter après ski. 89
Drylands, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($15, Icon Estates): Made by classic producer Nobilo, this high-end Sauvignon serves up complexity and character. It’s less about forward fruit and more about Sancerre-like minerality. For those looking to expand their Sauvignon horizons, seek out this wine. 90
Brancott, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir Reserve 2005 ($18, Pernod Ricard): Who says you can’t buy affordable Pinot Noir that tastes great and expresses varietal character? You can with Brancott. As New Zealand’s largest producer, they make wines in all price points and this fleshy, powerful, concentrated Pinot is a steal at under $20. 90
Spy Valley, Marlborough (New Zealand) Gewürztraminer 2006 ($20, Broadbent Selections): Named for a nearby spy station, this producer is one to try. From Sauvignon Blanc to Riesling and Pinot Noir, their wines are well-priced and well-crafted. The Gewurztraminer in particular caught my attention for its spiced, peachy style. Full-bodied yet fresh, its balanced sweetness is an ideal foil for spicy fare from burritos to Kung Pao chicken. 89
Pegasus Bay, Waipara (Canterbury, New Zealand) Riesling 2005 ($23, Empson): This is a wine to try before you die. Trust me, it’s that good. Lush, aromatic, off-dry and creamy with rich fruit flavors, its slightly-aged style is singular. You’ll want to not only drink it, but also bathe in it, dab it behind your ears, and use it to seduce your partner. 92
Pegasus Bay Waipara (Canterbury, New Zealand) Pinot Noir ‘Prima Donna’ 2004 ($90, Empson): A Pinot worth its hefty price tag. Winemakers Matt Donaldson and Lynnette Hudson take the best small batches of old-vine fruit then use Burgundian techniques to make this flagship of their Pinot roster. Structured with fine grained tannins and vibrant acidity, the wine is savagely savory, yet fruit driven. Age short term if you can resist the siren call of Prima Donna. 94
Sherwood, Waipara (Canterbury, New Zealand) Riesling “Clearwater” 2004 ($16, Southern Starz): Racy style with freshness that belies its hint of age. Orange zest and citrus aromas with crisp, bright finish. Might be hard to find but worth the effort. 88
Daniel Schuster, Waipara (Canterbury, New Zealand) Riesling 2006 ($16, American Estate Wines): A standout among Rieslings in New Zealand. Rich, Alsatian-like kerosene aromas are a counterpoint to the wine’s orange blossom and floral delicacy. Taut and well put together, this is a Riesling-lover’s Riesling. 90
Peregrine, Central Otago (New Zealand) Pinot Gris 2006 ($26, Empson): Pinot Gris seems to be garnering the accolades in New Zealand at the moment, but since I haven’t tasted many stellar examples, I’ve been bewildered. That was until I sampled this wine. From one of Central Otago’s top producers, Peregrine, the wine overflows with personality. It’s lush, intensely aromatic and fills the mouth with viscous pleasure. Don’t miss it. 92
Felton Road, Central Otago (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2005 ($40, Wilson Daniels): Most bottles fly off store shelves and wine 
lists instantly, but if you can locate a bottle of this silky, elegant red, grab it. Felton Road ranks among my favorite Pinot producers worldwide. Winemaker Blair Walter is a rare talent who gets out in the vineyard (just talking to him about their organic and biodynamically-grown fruit gets him excited) then tries to remain as hands-off as possible in the cellar. The result is a wine that truly expresses the elusive quality of ‘terroir.’ 92
Felton Road (Central Otago, New Zealand) ‘Block 5’ Pinot Noir 2005 ($63, Wilson Daniels): A stunner. Pure, focused and expressive, this wine comes from the Elms Vineyard at the end of Felton Road in the highly-regarded Bannockburn sub-area of Central Otago. The Block 5 is located at the base of the vineyard’s hill and expresses telltale wild thyme, deep cherry and forest floor aromas. Enjoy now due to its finesse, but it will age long term. 94
Olssens of Bannockburn, Central Otago (New Zealand) Pinot Noir ‘Jackson Barry’ 2004 ($30, Via Pacifica): One of the reasons I’m enamored with Central Otago Pinot Noir is because of its wild herb and wild berry aromas wrapped in a silky texture. This wine–a classic in terms of the region–is named for a colorful historical figure. It sports a sophistication much like Chambolle-Musigny. 90
Mt. Difficulty, Central Otago (New Zealand) Pinot Noir “Roaring Meg” 2006 ($20, American Estates Wines): Located next to Felton Road and across the street from Olssens in the Bannockburn area, Mt. Difficulty completes a golden triangle of Central Otago Pinot producers. This entry-level Pinot (no pun intended) takes its name from a well-known and prodigious prostitute during the Gold Rush. Fleshy, soft and pretty, it’s a wine that will please everyone. 89