It seems only fitting that a man who has lived within view of Simi Winery for more than two decades should eventually be at the helm.
Steve Reeder took over the winemaking reins of this historic property in 2003, after creating quite a buzz–and high scores–for his creations at Sonoma’s Chateau St. Jean winery. Under Reeder’s guidance, highly-touted wines such as “Cinq Cépages” (a red, Bordeaux-style blend) helped transform St. Jean from a Sonoma staple to a winery known worldwide. He plans on doing it again at Simi.
“I specialize in rejuvenating classic brands,” said Reeder when I met with him recently at the winery. “I’m here to bring Simi into the 21st century.”
Articulate, opinionated, confident, and talented are words that come to mind when I think of Reeder. These traits, along with access to Simi’s 600 acres of prime Sonoma County vineyards, put him in position to accomplish his goals.
The Vision
I went to visit Steve Reeder because I’ve been a fan of Simi for years. Generally, I’ve found it to be a rock solid brand serving up consistency and value. It has a strong presence on restaurant wine lists and can be found easily in retail outlets. What’s been lacking for me recently, however, has been the excitement factor. Fitting into what I dub the “classic” category, it’s a strong producer but one that often gets overlooked in the rush to find the latest, hottest thing.
Reeder’s mission is to make Simi sizzle again. Since arriving at the winery, he has increased production to meet demand. He has also focused on solidifying wine offerings to better showcase the unique character of Sonoma County. “Sonoma wines are expressive, ripe and rich, but still relaxed,” Reeder notes. His subtle winemaking changes, such as moving their signature Sauvignon Blanc to stainless steel tanks to maintain freshness and using only Alexander Valley grapes in their Cabernet Sauvignon, are just a few examples of his gentle winemaking tweaks. Reeder calls what he is doing “evolution, not revolution.” Injecting the brand with energy, he still remains committed to honoring the property’s rich history.
The Past
Simi dates to the early 1880s when Italian immigrant brothers, Giuseppe and Pietro Simi, planted vineyards in Alexander Valley. With rolling hills, sun-filled days and cool nights, this northern California spot reminded them of their native Tuscany. The brothers built large stone cellars to make their wine, and these cavernous halls are still in use today.
In 1904, Giuseppe’s daughter, Isabelle, began managing the winery when she was only 18 years old. Her creative spirit took off after the repeal of Prohibition in 1934, at which point she had a stroke of brilliance. Convincing her husband they needed a place to host visitors, she converted an old 25,000 gallon barrel into a make-shift tasting room. Turning it on its end and cutting a large door on one side, Isabelle placed the barrel in front of the winery and invited guests in for wine, food and Italian-style hospitality. Offering antipasto platters to nibble along with the vino, she knew the importance of showcasing wine with food.
Today, Isabelle’s philosophy lives on and Simi is a leader in highlighting the role of wine at the table. In-house chef Eric Lee starts with the wine and develops recipes for dishes that work with individual bottlings. On a recent visit, I had inspired pairings such as the Simi Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon served with seared ahi tuna on an eggplant risotto cake topped by olive jus. Who says red wine can’t go with fish? “It’s all about balance,” believes Lee.
The Winemaking
Though Isabelle Simi was the first strong woman to run Simi, she wasn’t the last. In 1979, heralded winemaker Zelma Long arrived, and for more than two decades she was synonymous with Simi. After a short stint by Nick Goldschmidt, the winemaking reigns now rest firmly in Reeder’s hands.
Steve was born in California’s but grew up as an “Air Force brat” living in France, England and Germany. “Wine is about making memories,” he said. Memories of sipping European beer and German Riesling as a teenager led him down a vinous path.
After graduating from University of California at Davis (widely regarded as the top American school for winemakers), he worked in California before headed east. He toiled in the vineyards of New York, Pennsylvania and Virginia for nine years (not the normal route for California winemakers) before heading back to the Golden State. “I learned to make good wine from okay grapes back east, but I wanted to make great wine,” Reeder told me.
Once back to his home state, his career took a positive turn when he began working for Jess Jackson. He ultimately rose to head winemaker of the Kendall-Jackson brand. “Jess gave me a chance and solidified my confidence as a winemaker. I can’t thank him enough for that.” From there he moved to Chateau St. Jean where he followed in winemaker Richard Arrowood’s footsteps. For Reeder, it was his chance to shine and at St. Jean he proved he could create magic.
His magic touch is clearly evident at Simi. Tasting through the wines currently on the market, I found that they deliver quality and value, as in past years, but with more intensity. “Wine doesn’t have to be complicated, just complex,” said Reeder.
The Wines
Simi, Sonoma County (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2004 ($15): This is the antithesis of a lean, green style of Sauvignon. Still capturing the zesty freshness of the variety, the wine highlights juicy tangerine and melon notes with a touch of minerality. 88
Simi, Sonoma County (California) Chardonnay 2004 ($17): A deliciously elegant Chardonnay with hints of spice and balanced oak. Smooth and creamy, it doesn’t sacrifice a pleasing texture for the all-important kick of acidity. This is a wine meant for food. As Reeder notes, “I want to make a Chardonnay that transitions from soft and enjoyable sipping at the bar to one that also has enough acid to be at the dinner table and pair with halibut.” 89
Simi, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Reserve 2003 ($25): Cooling ocean influences are the reason Russian River is such a special place for Chardonnay. Fruit gets ripe slowly while maintaining acidity. This sexy wine is substantial and full but without being overbearing. Sweet Meyer lemon and mango aromas are followed with richness on the palate and a kiss of complexity from oak. 91
Simi, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($25): Cabs from Alexander Valley are all about suppleness, and this wine is no exception. Hints of green peppercorn aromas, dark berry fruit flavors, and soft tannins combine in this smooth sipper. 89
Simi, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Landslide Vineyard 2002 ($33): What a deal! You’d have a hard time finding this type of complexity in a wine costing twice as much. This is a blend of 90 percent Cabernet with the other ten percent comprised of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Malbec. Plush and mouth filling, with licorice and cocoa aromas, concentrated boysenberry flavors, and noticeable but supple tannins, it’s a wine to enjoy now with a steak or cellar for 5-8 years. 92