As Competition Director, it falls to me to select judges for the Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition, which is a bit of a challenge in and of itself. A winemaker’s principal job might be described as hunting for “issues” in much the same way that a building inspector might check out your prospective home purchase and let you know of any problems before you plunk down your hard-earned dollars. Who wouldn’t want that? The difficulty in selecting judges comes in finding a group of those makers who bring together a broad set or experiences with varieties and regions that will result in a balanced look at the wines being judged and be able to celebrate finding something worthy of praise even if it was “built” by someone else. I believe the top award-winning wines appearing below show a keen attention to not only basic soundness but also nuance and style as well.
The wines below were all awarded Platinum medals by the judges. The reviews reflect my personal scores and impressions of our “Top 35” – I hope you will be enticed to conduct your own inspection of some of them. As an aside, I first tasted all of these “blind” to arrive at an evaluation and score before completing the review.
Wines are listed alphabetically with reds at the top, followed by whites, sparklers, and “desserts”:
RED:
Bella Luna Estate Winery, Templeton Gap District (Paso Robles, California) Red Wine “Estate Riserva” Carly’s Vineyard 2020 ($58): I always enjoy having a stylized blend cross my desk and then, when tasting blind, finding out that it comes from a surprise appellation just adds to the fun. Cabernet and Sangiovese play well together in lots of famous Tuscan wines, and this wine tips its cap to those counterparts while also tipping itself off as a Central Coast California wine thanks to its richness and forward fruit character. If this is what I think it is, it’s a bottling that’s on quite a roll over the past few vintages. Nice to see the quality remaining in the top tier! Post reveal note: The previous two vintages of this bottling took Wine of the Year honors at Winemaker Challenge, and this one came in a close second. 97
Brick Barn, Santa Ynez Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Cabernet Franc “Fatalist” 2019 ($180): A giant of a wine, beautifully textured and fruit driven, yet keeping the telltale herbal characteristics of the variety intact from start to finish. Blackberry, cherry, pepper, dried herb and hints of vanilla and sarsaparilla appear as aromas and flavors, and they linger long together. It’s absolutely riveting now and will age well over the next ten to fifteen years. It’s the sort of wine that will make you wonder why you aren’t reaching for “the other Cabernet” more often. Fabulous! 98
Carruth Cellars, Chalk Hill (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Franc Windsor Oaks Vineyard 2021 ($48): There’s quite a bit of structure to dig through here, but it’s worth the time to swirl this about and discover what lurks beneath. Faint Cabernet Franc herbaceousness is the tip-off regarding the variety from the first whiff, and the wine unfolds slowly on the palate, leaving an elegant and integrated impression in the finish as the structural elements subside. This is a long-term cellar candidate, but a long decanting will permit you to enjoy it very much already. 95
Chapillon, Calatayud (Aragón, Spain) Red Wine “Siendra” 2019 ($20): This is a seductive, smoky, Grenache-forward blend that utilizes wood character to full advantage without overwhelming the attractive red and blue fruit character the variety is prized for. Bright acidity and a silky texture carry the fruit and pepper notes, with brown spice barrel tones deepening the overall impression. Serve this when you might serve a Pinot Noir, but want a little pepper and additional heft. Delicious! 94
Espaldera (Spain) Red Wine “Vinho Tinto” 2020 ($27): Very expressive wine! The nose bursts with a rye bread-ish caraway seed note and a mix of black and red berries that dance well with the seed character, and they all transfer to palate flavors, leaving an interesting sort of dried fruit sandwich impression. If that sounds like a strange tasting note, I would agree, but the glass doesn’t lie. Completely unique. 93
Fallbrook Winery, South Coast (California) Malbec “Winemaker’s Vineyard Collection #19” 2021 ($50): I love a wine that unfolds in the glass – one that has a story to tell and takes its sweet time doing so. This is such a wine, prefaced with subtle aromas of blackberry and kirsch that are deeply layered, then burst forth on the palate, adding supporting characters of white pepper and brown spice, all pushing toward a satisfying climax. Take your time with this like you might with a fine cigar – savor the pleasure! 94
Francis Ford Coppola (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Claret, Diamond Collection” 2021 ($19): The proud march of the 2021 vintage continues, with quality coming from just about everywhere in the Golden state. Tasting blind, I’d guess this to be a budget-friendly wine that is punching well above its weight class based on its combination of approachability and complexity. If that’s the case, we all stand to benefit. More of this sort of approach is needed domestically. 93
J. Lohr, St. Helena – Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon Carol’s Vineyard 2021 ($60): One of my appellations for Cabernet Sauvignon almost always shows its provenance in the aromatic profile – there’s a black and blue fruit vibe unique to St. Helena that shows itself right away, as it does here. That fruit character is allowed to shine, with minimal winemaking influence serving to keep the focus on that fruit and adding nuance and depth. This is masterfully realized wine at a ridiculously low price for the neighborhood. 97
J. Lohr, Paso Robles (San Luis Obispo County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Signature” 2020 ($100): Maintaining sense of place in a wine with a really bold profile can be a hard nut to crack, which makes this a marvel of sorts. It’s pushing its Paso Robles profile through serious ripeness, letting you know where it comes from and at the same time showing what’s possible in pushing the varietal envelope. Tasting this blind, I have a feeling I know what it might be since the wine now has a track record of accomplishing this mission in style. Post-reveal note: It was in fact what I thought it might be – my first look at the new release, and it falls right in line with its history. Bravo! 96
McGrail Vineyards, Livermore Valley (California) Cabernet Franc 2020 ($52): This bottling delivers all you want in a Cabernet Franc with the addition of a pleasant earthy character that serves to offset the fruit and deepen the mix of fruit, moderate oak toast and mild dried herbs. I would age this wine a while for complete integration of all the elements – it’s just starting to show its charms. 94
Navarro Vineyards, Mendocino (California) Red Wine GSM “Red Roan Cuvée” 2022 ($39): Domestic Red Rhône-style blends, or GSM’s as they’re often called, can be all over the map when it comes to style – some choose bombast, and others choose subtlety, and still others show almost every shade in between. This leans toward the subtle side, with layered, well defined red fruits – cherry, ripe strawberry and raspberry, bright fall spice and fine grained tannins knitting it all together. This will age well over the next ten years, but if you love freshness, you can jump right in. 94
Odd Lot, Monterey County (California) Petite Sirah / Petit Verdot 2021 ($15): I have said it before, when it comes to blended red wines, the priority is deliciousness, and smart players market the wines as such. I am guessing that this has a whimsical label that makes the consumer think “fun” and has them pulling it off the shelf and putting it in the basket. This is bright black and blue, with forward Petit Verdot character that gets some backbone from Petite Sirah’s structure. The weather is warming, and backyard burger fests await this tasty wine. 94
Raffaldini, Swan Creek (North Carolina) Sangiovese Classico 2022 ($30): Ask any winemaker in Tuscany, and they will tell you that Sangiovese “doesn’t move,” meaning that it is not the same outside of the region. While I tend to agree, I don’t think that the resulting variation is necessarily a problem. This East Coast domestic offering has plenty of its own merit, showing rich red fruit, sturdy structure, brushy accents, expected varietal acidity and a long, satisfying finish. A successful move, I would say. 94
St. Francis, Sonoma Valley (California) Merlot Behler Vineyard 2021 ($52): Merlot somehow still gets a bad rap, though some of the world’s finest wines have it as a major component if not the only component. This version is one such example – a true delight, with forward berry fruit, bright oak spice and an acidic edge that knits the components together. The finish is stops just short of citric, keeping the fruit lively, watering the mouth and begging another sip. 94
South Coast Winery, South Coast (California) Merlot 2019 ($14): This is a wine that will remind you of everything that is great about Merlot – like its rich berry and cherry fruit aromas and flavors, presented here with gentle winemaking influence that adds a little vanilla and a little brown spice. Faint dried herb notes add depth, the finish lingers pleasantly, and you get all that for a steal of a price. Well done! 94
Tom Eddy, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon Stagecoach Vineyard 2018 ($225): One of the questions often posed to wine critics is “How do you know that a wine is going to have a long life?” Success in this respect often involves a combination of factors, but usually it comes down to the tannin and acid balance in a particular wine and how those elements play against the fruit character and the winemaking influence. Imagining the softening of the structural elements and how that will leave things down the road is the magic. Do we know definitively? No, but long experience helps, and it’s a joy to see it play out over many years and see a prediction pan out. This is such a wine – it’s firing on all cylinders, and it’ll no doubt outlive me. 96
Tom Eddy, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($185): There was a time when many makers of Cabernet Sauvignon were encouraged, whether newly available techniques, market forces or other reasons, to try to get any herbal characteristics out of the wine – particularly in Napa Valley. I have often referred to this in general terms as “new school’ vs. “old school,” and I’m solidly in the old school camp as a fan. While this doesn’t mean that there aren’t great new school wines out there, for me it means that something lost / something gained philosophy sometimes misses out when it comes to complexity. This wine is deliciously complex, with layered fruit, herb, toast and spice notes that play together beautifully and promise to continue to fold together into an elegant elder statesperson. Nice! 95
V. Sattui Winery, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Terra Forza” 2019 ($44): A Cabernet that is built for bold beef dishes, this will benefit from a little fat content that will loosen the structure of the wine make both items better for the pairing. There is plenty of blackberry and black currant fruit waiting to be released, and the fat does the trick. Add in the pepper and some oak char, and you have a solid dinner partner. 94
V. Sattui Winery, Napa Valley (California) Malbec 2021 ($52): Malbec is a great choice when you need a juicy, fruit-driven red wine with hints of savory spice and definite palate weight. It is all here in this bottling, and it’s well tempered – think elegant swagger – with a fine-tuned balance of black fruit, well-folded wood spice and a touch of clove. Bright acidity keeps things taut and tasty throughout. Bring on the beef! 95
V. Sattui Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Collina d’Oro” 2022 ($68): Pinot Noir is capable of great complexity when planted in a prime site and tended well, while also being treated to skilled winery work. Sometimes the work required is restrained shepherding, and that’s what is on display here. Bright red fruit, cola and wildflower aromas lead to a palate where racy acidity translates the aromas into equally bright flavors, adding cinnamon, mild rhubarb and soft dry earth character. It finishes long and food friendly – I would lean toward white meats as a pairing. 94
V. Sattui, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Zinfandel “School House Creek" Old Vine 2021 ($46): The 2021 vintage’s “wow” factor extends far and wide in California – even to Zinfandel from conspicuously warm environments. This offering shows real benefit from the long, even vintage, with classic Dry Creek mineral notes joining brambly fruit, gentle oak spice and moderate toast. It is not at all overt on any level, and fruit and spice burst in the finish is already well integrated and ready for a fancier set of food than you might associate with Zin. This one will work anywhere a bold Cabernet would, with more food-friendly acidity to boot. 95
Villa Bellezza, Upper Mississippi River Valley (North Central USA) "Pepin Nouveau" 2023 ($20): As wineries look to hedge against changing climate conditions, one place many are looking is toward American hybrids and natives that were originally conceived to handle extremes of hot and cold. This is a new-to-me take on Frontenac (a cold tolerant, mold resistant variety), and it leans toward Beaujolais in style, with a silky entry, cherry and Christmas spice aromas and flavors and a persistent finish that keeps me interested. A fine mix, and maybe a glimpse into the future that is worth seeking out. 93
WHITE:
Jeff Runquist, Amador County (California) Verdelho 2023 ($27): A component of Portugal’s Vinho Verde wines is finding suitable California lodging from the South Coast to the Sierra Foothills, and that is a good thing. This example delivers lively sweet aromas that will remind you of Circus Peanuts – yes, the spongey orange candy from your youth – that will draw you in and then pull the rug out from under you with its viscous but tart stone fruit mix and a lime zest kick in the finish. Tasty stuff! 93
King Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris “Domaine” 2022 ($29): Made in a zesty style that has myriad fans for good reason – particularly if you are an acid hound like me. It is all freshness and brightness, with focused acidity enhancing mixed citrus flavors that have genuine staying power, finishing with a twist of grapefruit that just keeps the deliciousness going. The winery’s “regular” offering put this style on the map domestically, and this special bottling shows the heights possible. Serve this solo, chilled a bit, or just out of the cellar to really get at the depth on offer. 95
King Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2022 ($19): This is a Pinot Gris with a tart apple focus that features acidity that is rounded just enough to bring more drinkers into the fold. That said, all the characteristics that lovers of the variety hold dear are present, and I suspect the pricing will please all comers. Simply delicious! 93
Navarro Vineyards, Anderson Valley (Mendocino County, California) Pinot Blanc 2023 ($21): I believe I have tasted this wine before and given it deservedly high praise. It shows what domestic Pinot Blanc can be, with deeply layered aromatics, linear translation to flavors, bracing acidity that ties it all together, and a finish push that hits like a blow torch. It is the sort of wine that makes me want to stop tasting and start drinking. Be right back. 96
Scheid Vineyards, Monterey (California) Chardonnay “Estate Grown” 2022 ($32): For me, part of Chardonnay’s attraction is the stylistic variation that exists in the marketplace. Of course that is not the case for many drinkers, who prefer their Chardonnay in a very specific style from one or two very specific producers. So, it’s good to find a version that can reach across many aisles and please everyone to some degree. This rendition offers just that, showing apple, lemon crème, a little oak toast, a little spice, good integration and a long finish that cleans the viscous midpalate texture up nicely. Sometimes compromise is the answer…tell your congressional representative. 94
V. Sattui Winery, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay 2022 ($39): This activates my Chardonnay radar with a blip of lively acidity that keeps the flavors fresh from start to finish and allows a fair amount of oak to enhance the apple and pear fruit without taking over. It is crisp and creamy, with good finish push, and it’s not at all overweight. A crowd-pleaser with depth in a Cali-Montrachet sort of way – go get ‘em! 95
V. Sattui Winery (Anderson Valley (Mendocino County, California) Riesling “Another World” 2022 ($34): Ahhh…Riesling! Here is a great one. Just off-dry, meaning not so dry that its fresh fruit character is stripped away. It is bright, with racy acidity that gives real push to the mix of fresh citrus, apple and stone fruit; also long, with all the elements remaining from start to finish. Let’s call it a not too dry, bright, fresh, long drink that you will want to refill your glass with again and again. This will age long term if you are so inclined. More please! 97
Whitehaven, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2023 ($20): This bottling has become a bit of a standard-bearer in its category, largely thanks to wide distribution. Don’t let that fool you though – it is a worthy carrier. All the New Zealand hallmarks are there, delivered in balanced, relatively gentle fashion that keeps me in the fan zone. Nice to be able to find it easily as well! 94
SPARKLING:
Domaine Carneros, Carneros (California) Brut Rosé “Cuvée de la Pompadour” NV ($47): Tart cherry and strawberry fruit join with lively lemon aromas and flavors that land brightly on all fronts, with bright finish push that keeps going and going. Sparkling Rosé often carries less complexity that its white counterparts, but complexity isn’t necessarily always the order of the day. Especially when it comes to bubbles, sometimes directness fits the bill in a more appropriate way. Nicely done! 94
King Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Brut Cuvée 2019 ($40): The Vintage Brut designation in Champagne is meant to show something unique – something that stands out above the multi-vintage “house style” offerings that are shooting at a specific profile. Domestically, things are a little different, with most sparklers today on tasting room menus intent on offering something for everyone, with vintage not necessarily a consideration. This wine rises above the arguments by delivering crisp acidity, a fine mouse, rich flavors of apple, lemon and gentle brioche, finishing with a light scour that leaves the tart fruit lingering. Beautifully executed. 94
DESSERT:
Anthony Road Wine Company, Finger Lakes (New York) Vignoles “Martini Becraft Selection” ($65): Beautifully rotten! Or more appropriately, beautifully rotted with “noble rot.” This is Vignoles at its best, with botrytis concentrating the golden raisin fruit into a dense yet lithe package that pumps flavor and hangs in the mouth long, heightening your senses as you continue sipping. Drink solo, or pair with a fine Stilton for a dramatic pairing. Gorgeously unique wine! 95
Caposaldo, Provincia di Pavia IGT (Italy) Moscato ($15): Although the Moscato craze has subsided a bit, there are still plenty of fans, and when it comes to this offering you can count me among them. It offers notes of fresh flowers, peaches, Meyer lemons and spices all wrapped in freshening acidity and remaining lightly fizzy and bright from start to finish. When you want something sweet done right, look no further. 93
Navarro Vineyards, Anderson Valley (Mendocino County, California) Gewurztraminer “Late Harvest Sweet” 2023 ($25): I love it when a winemaker treats a sweet dessert wine with the same care and attention that they give to the rest of the winery offerings. This Gewurztraminer is sweet, but it is crisp, clean and light in texture. It is certainly not light on flavor, pushing sweet apricot and spice through a long finish that won’t slow you down – it will just keep you coming back for more. Consider brown butter cookies as a decadent accompaniment. 94