As I sipped the 1993 Dom Perignon Oenotheque with winemaker Vincent Chaperon, I not only marveled at its youthful freshness, but I wondered who would buy it.
At $400 or so a pop, this is a luxury wine being released into a world market that’s been staggered by the global economic downturn. I trust, however, that not every wine enthusiast has tapped out. It would be a pity if the glories of aged Dom Perignon were to go unappreciated.
I say that with all sincerity, for DP is at its best with a bit of mileage. The ’93 is all the more impressive because the vintage delivered delicate Champagnes that didn’t seem at the time as though they would have the depth or power to improve with extended cellaring.
Of course, wines selected for Dom Perignon’s Oenotheque program have been cellared in pristine conditions in the caves at Moet & Chandon. The ’93 Oenotheque was only recently disgorged and offers a complex bouquet of toasted aromas, yellow citrus, minerality and hints of red fruit, supported by lively acidity.
In the scheme of things, the price tag is modest compared to collectible wines of similar quality and age. It may well be the best $400 wine in the world, a value I suppose to those with deep pockets. Still, I wonder who will buy it. I’d be happy to help them with the task of popping the cork!
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