Can a buried cow horn packed with manure help make better wine? What about a piece of bovine intestine loaded with chamomile flower heads? Will planting and harvesting grapes by the cycles of the moon increase the quality of the fruit? Adherents of biodynamics say yes. They believe that these techniques, among others, are the best way to achieve greatness in the bottle.
Though these holistic potions and procedures may sound like vineyard voodoo, biodynamics is one of the hottest buzz words in the wine industry.
Consider some of the wine luminaries carrying the biodynamic torch: Nicolas Joly of the famed Coulée de Serrant in France’s Loire Valley, Michel Chapoutier in the Rhone Valley, and Lalou Bize-Leroy in Burgundy. And the list goes on, including Alvaro Palacios (the man behind the famed L’Ermita from Priorat in Spain) and California stars such as Quintessa, Benziger, Grgich Hills and Robert Sinskey. These are only a sampling of the well-known biodynamic believers who are regarded worldwide for their high quality wines.
What is it about biodynamics that has hooked them? “Simply put, it works,” says Ivo Jeramaz, Grgich Hills’ Vice President of Vineyards and Production. He is an ardent convert to the principles of biodynamics, and, since hearing Nicolas Joly speak in 2002, Grgich Hills has transitioned more than 250 acres to biodynamics.
I first started learning about the natural farming theory more than five years ago when I met with Michel Chapoutier at his offices in Tain l’Hermitage. His passion for growing grapes organically and his fervent belief in biodynamics has helped raise the classic winery to new heights. After following Chapoutier’s wines for years and seeing the progression of quality, I became a believer, too.
The problem for those of us who aren’t actually in the vineyards on a daily basis, however, is understanding the nuances of biodynamics and how it impacts what we ultimately taste in the glass.
What is Biodynamics?
To grasp the overall concept, let me put it in the context of more familiar terms relating to organics.
Organically-Grown: This means that grapes are grown without the use of pesticides or chemicals. Pests and vine diseases are managed through natural measures such as cover crops. Vineyards can be certified organic through a number of organizations like the California Certified Organic Farmers, but don’t have to be. Wineries large and small are focusing on converting to organic-growing methods.
Organic Wine: While more and more vineyards are employing organic-growing techniques, actually making an organic wine is quite different and not as common. Not only do grapes need to be from organically-grown sources, winemakers cannot add sulfites. It sounds good, but added sulfites act as a preservative and without them, wine has a shorter shelf life. Do sulfites cause wine headaches as many people think? Probably not. Less than one percent of the population is actually allergic to sulfites, so if you don’t react to other sources of sulfites–dried fruits, juices and salad bars to name a few–you’re probably not allergic. The cause of wine headaches is most likely too much alcohol, which causes dehydration. (Drink one glass of water for every glass of wine and you’ll thank me in the morning.)
Biodynamics: Think of biodynamics as uber-organics based on principles developed by Austrian scientist Rudolf Steiner in the early 1920s. As with organically-grown wines, the use of synthetic and chemical fertilizers, pesticides, and herbicides are not allowed (though added sulfites are allowed during winemaking), but biodynamics is much more than that. Derived from Greek root words that mean life and energy, the biodynamic approach of growing grapes treats the soil as a living organism and focuses on balancing the entire vineyard and winery environment with the world at large. Wineries that adhere to the rigorous tenants of biodynamics can attain the gold standard of certification from an international organization named Demeter. Look for the Demeter seal on bottles of certified biodynamic wines.
What About that Manure?
Now back to the cow dung. Part of biodynamics is the use of nine different natural preparations to address specific issues in the vineyard. For example, cow manure packed into a cow horn and buried underground during winter undergoes chemical changes similar to fermentation. When it’s dug up, the mixture is sprayed on the soil to promote the development of healthy bacteria. And, those calming chamomile flowers stuffed into pseudo-sausages are added to compost to stabilize nitrogen and stimulate plant growth. Natural, yes, crazy, no.
Is it lunacy to follow the cycles of the moon? No. We don’t question the impact of the moon on ocean tides and on human behaviors (the legend of the werewolf, right?), so why disregard it when looking at the growing cycles of plants. Due to the flow of energy between celestial bodies, biodynamic farmers believe correlating their activities to the pattern of the moon and stars is beneficial to vines.
Ultimately, most biodynamic producers with whom I’ve spoken agree that the financial and time commitment it takes to transition to biodynamics pays off. Their wines taste better and express purity of terroir. (This often over-used French term refers loosely to the taste of place in the glass.)
Whether or not terroir can be detected in internationally-styled, modern wine is a hotly-debated subject, though not among the biodynamic circle. The real benefit of going natural is allowing the vine to find its voice. As Grady Wann, winemaker and general manager of Quivira Vineyards in Dry Creek Valley says, “Biodynamics is the best way we’ve found to authentically represent place and people.”
Recommended Domestic Wines:
Highlights from a recent tasting of biodynamic producers at San Francisco’s BD Forum:
Whites:
Robert Sinskey, Los Carneros (Napa Valley, California), Pinot Blanc 2005 ($18 for 375 ml bottle): As one of California’s top producers of certified organically-grown wines, Sinskey has been using biodynamic techniques since 1991. Known for Pinot Noir, they also excel at crafting a special wine from the related white grape, Pinot Blanc. Sold in an elegantly-shaped half bottle, this dry white is taut but very interesting, with layers of bright acidity lending structure to a rich texture. Riesling-like aromatics of peaches and flowers complete the delicious package. 91
Grgich Hills, Napa Valley (California), Fumé Blanc 2005 ($24): Mike Grgich knows white wine. He was the legendary winemaker behind the Chardonnay from Chateau Montelena that won the famous Paris Tasting in 1976. After that victory, he and Austin Hills of the Hills Bros. Coffee family formed Grgich Hills. Today, the winery is a new leader in the biodynamic movement. Their well-known Sauvignon Blanc is fermented half in stainless steel and half in 3-year old oak barrels to maintain its crisp quality while adding complexity. Lemon cream pie aromas are followed by a distinctive minerality on the palate. 90
Quivira, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc “Fig Tree Vineyard” 2004 ($15): Quivira’s estate vineyards are certified biodynamic by Demeter. Their Fig Tree Vineyard takes its name from the old mission fig that towers over the Sauvignon Blanc vines. With a dab of Semillon added to the blend and nearly 70 percent of the wine undergoing barrel fermentation, there’s an appealing lushness in the glass. 88
Reds
Quivira, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Zinfandel 2003 ($20): Zinfandel is the signature wine of Dry Creek Valley and this voluptuously-styled example shows why. Old head-trained Zin vines produce small amounts of intense and powerful fruit that forms the backbone of the hearty red. Fleshed out with nearly 14 percent Petite Sirah, it is weighty with ripe red fruit flavors and hints of black pepper and tobacco. Over the past few years Zinfandel has become more and more expensive, so it’s a pleasant surprise to see this kind of quality at a fairly affordable price. 90
Frey, Redwood Valley (Mendocino County, California) Zinfandel 2003 ($13.50): Family-owned Frey is the oldest and largest purely organic winery in the United States never adding sulfites to their wines. Since 1980 they have focused on organics and were one of the first to produce biodynamic wines in this country. Their roster of certified biodynamic wines includes Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot and Petite Sirah, but the Zinfandel tops the lot. Full-bodied and spicy with rustic notes of dark spices and raspberry fruit flavors. 87
Brick House, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Gamay Noir 2004 ($22): You could say owner and winemaker Doug Tunnell is a Francophile. His coveted Pinot Noirs are Burgundian in style and he crafts the best Gamay Noir outside of Beaujolais. The grape is the source of light and refreshing Beaujolais Nouveau, but also more complex versions from Morgon, Fleurie and Moulin a Vent. Brick House’s stellar wine is packed with dark fruit notes, licorice aromas, and a delightfully smooth mouthfeel. 90
Benziger, Sonoma Mountain (Sonoma County, California) “Tribute” 2002 ($70): So named to honor the principles of biodynamics, Tribute is one of the country’s first Demeter-certified biodynamic wines and is the first from Napa and Sonoma counties. A Bordeaux-style blend comprised of half Cabernet Sauvignon with Cabernet Franc, Merlot and a dash of Petit Verdot, it is complex and concentrated. Ripe blackberry aromas marry with dark chocolate and coffee notes. The tannins are succulent and balanced, making it easy to enjoy now or age up to a decade. 93