Uncorking Value Part II: Gems from Overlooked Regions

Apr 23, 2024 | Columns

By John McDermott


As I wrote in my last piece, “Uncorking Value:  Where to Find Outstanding Wines Without Breaking the Bank,” truly quality wine can be found for under $35 if you know where to look.  Last time, I wrote about value wines from well-known regions.  This time, we look at a few regions that–while not unknown by any means – often receive less attention than the quality of their wines should dictate.  Join me as we look at wines from the Finger Lakes region of New York; Stellenbosch, South Africa; and Jerez, Spain. 

 

Finger Lakes, New York:

For any East-Coasters out there regularly lamenting the distance to get to the great wine regions of the US, it’s important to remember that New York state is home to one of the great American wine regions too:  The Finger Lakes.  The Finger Lakes wine region has a storied history that goes back well over a century, with records of vineyard plantings dating back to 1829. 

Today the region is home to over 100 wineries and is producing world class wines.  The region’s most notable grape is Riesling, but other grapes are coming to prominence too, including Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, and Pinot Noir.  Despite its quality and recent notoriety, the region is still often overlooked in favor of the more famed West-Coast regions.  But the lack of awareness among the wine-buying masses is a great recipe for value, as many producers are making superb wines that sell for great prices, including Hermann J. Wiemer, Red Newt Cellars, Hillock & Hobbs, Ravines Wine Cellars, Forge Cellars, and of course, Dr. Konstantine Frank (the winery eponymously named for—and founded by—one of the pioneering figures in Finger Lakes wine.

A few of my personal favorites include:

– Hermann J. Wiemer HJW Vineyard Riesling:  This wine can regularly be found for between $30 and $35, and is consistently well rated by critics.  This is a classic Riesling with pronounced notes of citrus and stone fruits that fade into a nicely complex minerality. 

– Dr. Konstantin Frank Semi-Dry Riesling:  This wine can be found for between $15 and $20, and I encourage anyone that may sweet-wine phobic to give this a try.  Filled with rich tropical and stone fruit notes followed by zippy acidity, this wine is well balanced and fun.

– Hosmer Winery Cabernet Franc:  If Riesling isn’t your thing (and you should reevaluate if that’s the case) or you’re in the mood for something red, give this Cabernet Franc a chance.  Found for between $15 and $20, this fruity and ephemeral red is a great value.


Stellenbosch, South Africa:

Next up among the world’s value wine regions is Stellenbosch, South Africa.  Stellenbosch holds a special place in my heart, as it’s where my love affair with wine began.  While the region’s wine history dates back to the 1600s, it received a revitalization and reinvestment in the late 20th century, after the end of South Africa’s atrocious apartheid regime and the attendant sanctions that the country faced, resulting in a region that has an interesting mix of New and Old World character, along with European and distinctly African influences.

In the last few decades, South Africa has started exporting truly phenomenal wines, some of which can be found for fantastic prices.  The country produces classic European varieties such as Cabernet, Chenin Blanc and Syrah, along with South Africa’s native grape, Pinotage.  Producers to look out for include Warwick, Tokara, Thelema, Simonsig, and Mulderbosch. 

A few of my personal favorites include:

– Warwick Estate Three Cape Ladies Cape Blend:  This wine can be found between $21 and $27.  Medium-bodied and classic on the palate, with black fruits and spice, this is a well-balanced Bordeaux blend at a fraction of Bordeaux prices. 

Bonus tip: For something even cheaper, don’t be afraid of Warwick’s First Lady Cabernet Sauvignon, which can be found for $12 to $18 dollars and is an eminently drinkable Cabernet to pop open with pizza on a Tuesday.

 – Raats Old Vine Chenin Blanc:  Found for between $23 and $28, this is a fresh and zippy Chenin Blanc with a savory touch and just a bit of that classic Chenin funk. 

 – Kanonkop Kadette Pinotage: Pinotage can be a difficult grape to work with, as it lends itself to being overly hot and taking on burnt rubber aromas when done poorly.  Done right, however, it can be a satisfying and unique wine.  Few producers do it better than Kanonkop, where the vigor of Pinotage is matched with well-balanced oak, fruit, and depth. 


Jerez, Spain:

The final region to cover in this second installment of Uncorking Value is Jerez, Spain – home to a plethora of fantastic and fantastically priced Sherries.  For those uninitiated into the cult of Sherry, it is a wine that can be made in a variety of styles, from bone dry to decadently sweet, from nutty and oxidative to yeasty and fresh – all of which are delicious when done well.  That said, Sherry is unlike many other wines and has a much more savory – yet still refreshing–quality, which can take some by surprise.  But take the time to learn and appreciate Sherry and you will be duly rewarded with complex and fascinating wines that can be had for stellar prices.  Some producers to look out for include Bodegas Hildalgo, Barbadillo, La Guita, Valdespino, Lustau, and El Maestro.

A few of my favorites include:

– Bodegas Hidalgo, "La Gitana" Manzanilla:  Bodegas Hidalgo’s La Gitana is an iconic Manzanilla and at $16 for a 500ml bottle, it represents a phenomenal value.  Notes of almonds, sea spray, and lemon yield an easy-drinking and complex wine.

– Barbadillo Solear Manzanilla en Rama ‘Saca de Verano’:  Found for around $23 for a 375ml bottle (Sherry is commonly sold in smaller formats), this sherry has a lovely almond nuttiness that gives way to a zesty refreshing finish.

– Lustau Solera Los Arcos Dry Amontillado Sherry: Key to Amontillado sherries is that they see both non-oxidative and oxidative aging, allowing a unique and complex medley of flavors and aromas to form.  This particular wine shows dried fruit, caramel, and nuts, yet stays fresh with a touch of citrus and seaspray. 

 

There is a treasure trove of high-quality, reasonably priced wines to discover for those willing to do a little exploring.  Jerez, Stellenbosch, and the Finger Lakes are three great examples, but many more remain.  So, stay tuned for more installments of Uncorking Value in the future!