Over the past few weeks, I’ve had occasion to “talk trade”—the wine trade, that is—with longtime friends of mine in the suburban retail wine market of metropolitan New York. These are folks who have all “been around the block,” one for some 34 years now, another for at least three decades or perhaps four, still another after a mere two decades, making him a relative youngster.
The song they sang was much the same, from one shop to the next. Business is slow. The number I heard repeatedly was “down 15-20%.” And the chorus was the same: “We’re waiting for spring, and we’re not buying now, or at least not buying much.” There was considerable talk about the Surgeon General’s recommendation that wine bottles start carrying health warnings. As one said: “Well that didn’t help!”
As for imported French wines, my friends all said the same. In the words of one who was long connected to a famous retail giant, “There will always be a market for the very top end French wines, whether it’s Burgundy or Bordeaux—or whatever. There are enough very rich people—the multi-millionaire and billionaire crowd—in Westchester to guarantee it. But…”
The market for what are known as “Petits Châteaux” in Bordeaux—the hundreds of often-unclassified Bordeaux properties—as well as the less famous Burgundy AOCs—the villages and vineyards, place names as defined by French law—is pretty much stagnant. “In many cases, the prices haven’t even kept pace with inflation.” While it’s easy to select three-digit-priced Bordeaux or Burgundies and get something delicious, the trick is to navigate the minefield of the lesser-known wine categories. I’m here to help…because that’s what I drink Chez Anderson.
That said, there’s a wealth of good Petit Châteaux and “minor” Burgundy wines, both reds and whites, dry and sweet, available on what is a glutted market—wines which are already deeply discounted and which should be snapped up. We’re talking really good wines priced at retail from about $15 up to $40, including some absolutely delicious half-bottles of Sauternes and Barsac in the $20 range. The grand names in both Bordeaux and Burgundy come with serious price tags, but there are literally hundreds of very good bottles on retail shelves and available online. You just need some good advice as to how to pick them. And that’s what this column is all about.
The proof is in the pudding too. The cellar at my own Petit Château, Chez Anderson, virtually floats on such wines.
Among those that I’ve liked—and repeatedly purchased—and in some cases cellared for several years now, putting a lie to the notion that petits vins do not age and improve—are the following, in no special order of merit.
I begin, though, with a quartet of overlooked, underrated red Bordeaux from three very fine vintages, 2016, 2019, and 2020, none of which could be said, thank goodness, to be overripe or over-alcoholic. (All these wines have stated alcohol levels of 13.5-14%.) Prices are extremely reasonable, in the range of $25-$30 per bottle.
Both the 2019 and 2020 Château de Chantegrive rouges from the Graves are positively delicious—and very Graves-like, which is to say relatively soft (though not lacking in structure), plummy and oh, so yummy. They lack the iron-rich structure and blackcurrant character of the top St. Juliens and Pauillacs, but they are caressing sorts of wines. I wish I had more of these because I am sure that they will age well, easily another 5-10 years, probably longer.
The 2020 Château Tayac “Nicolas” bears the AOC Margaux and comes from the village of Soussans. Bernard Ginestet, whose family long owned the great Château Margaux itself, pronounces the wines of Soussans to be “strong and rich in vigor and color,” which is a very apt description of the 2020 Tayac. The Tayac, in particular, could do with a bit more time in bottle but is also very enjoyable now and would go brilliantly with lamb chops.
2016 Château Deyrem-Valentin is also AOC Margaux from the village of Soussans, but is very different indeed, being rather more fragrant, more delicate too—think violets and other small flowers—more Margaux proper rather than Soussans. It also has the advantage of coming from the marvelous 2016 harvest. It’s really quite lovely for drinking now—and reminds me of how wonderful the various 2000 Margaux were showing at this age.
2019 Château Lanessan is “only” designated as AOC Haut-Médoc, but has been spoken of in tandem with the Fifth Growths for decades if not for a century or more. I’ve bought and drunk Lanessan for many years now, beginning with the 1975, which was classic “Old School Bordeaux,” meaning that it had structure, thanks in no small part to all the thick sediment found in the bottle’s heavy, old-fashioned punt. The longtime owners, the Bouteiller family—for many years also the owners of the famous 2nd Growth Pauillac Château Pichon-Longueville Baron—then seemed to change course, making the wines more “approachable.” But the current fine vintage definitely harkens back to Lanessan as I remember it—and is really quite a serious wine. Aging is definitely called for here—the wine is firm and structured—there is once more a good dose of sediment to be found at the bottom of the bottle—though its inherent beauty is there for all to taste and appreciate. A really admirable wine at a great price (about $25).
Over the past several years, I’ve also had a number of very tasty dry white Bordeaux wines in much the same price range. Two of these come from the talented Olivier Bernard’s famous Domaine de Chevalier stable in Pessac-Léognan and are remarkable bargains. The wines of the Clos des Lunes are made from grapes grown on neighboring Sauternes vineyard land but vinified dry and are thus entitled only to the AOC Bordeaux designation. They don’t taste like AOC Bordeaux, but rather like what they truly are: Bone dry Sauternes. The entry level wine, the 2022 “La Petite Lune,” is 100% Sauvignon—presumably the fruit of Sauvignon Blanc vines, though perhaps there is some Sauvignon Gris in the mix? The wine itself tastes more like a nice young, fairly soft (12% stated alcohol) Graves than a pure Sauvignon and is all the better for it. Perfect late spring and summer apéritif wine. The 2017, especially, and 2019 “Lune d’Argent” are a perfect combination of Sémillon—vieilles vignes, I would guess—and Sauvignon Blanc and are much more serious. Really good stuff. The “Petite Lune” retails for about $18, the “d’Argent” for $20-$25.
My other house favorite dry white Bordeaux is from the aforementioned, quality-conscious Château de Chantegrive in the southern Graves region and also sells for about $25 a bottle. The 2020 “Cuvée Caroline” is a perfect example of what a dry white Graves should be like, beginning with a near-equal balance of Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc grapes aged in oak—maybe 20-25% new, I would venture to guess. Crisp, flavorful, saline, minerally, with really nice acidity and grip. I’ve literally gone through cases of the stuff. Very nicely balanced too, at 13% stated alcohol. The longtime owners, the Lévêque family, should be applauded for the consistent excellence of their wines, red and dry white alike.
To finish up in Bordeaux—and to pair with your fresh spring/summer fruits or with the foie gras—there’s really no getting around a glass or two of Sauternes or neighboring Barsac. My house wine here has for the past couple of years been the 2019 Les Justices, from the same family, the Médevilles, who own the fabled Château Gillette in Sauternes. That said, Les Justices can stand on its own. This is absolutely classic Sauternes, made predominantly from Sémillon grapes. Wonderful acidity to cut through the sweetness, and a match made in heaven for the mousse de foie gras that I try to keep in the fridge. Oh, and a very beautiful color too! Very impressive stuff, especially at the price ($20 per half bottle).
Our train will soon leave for Burgundy. All aboard! See you next column!
Santé!
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Photo Credit: John Anderson’s Beloved Château de Chantegrive