This hasn’t always been the case, and many Rhône whites of the past could be faulted both for lacking freshness, and, on occasion, for overindulging in new oak character. But the region as a whole has taken a renewed interest in their white wines; while they only count for 6% of production, plantings of white grapes are on the rise in response to an increased global demand for white wines. The region’s producers say U.S. importers are asking for white wines, when once only the region’s reds were of interest.
The region’s growers have a great many options in terms of white grape varieties to choose from, with each appellation allowing a slightly different combination of white varieties. In terms of overall plantings, Grenache Blanc leads the way, just as its red counterpart does. Viognier, Marsanne, and Roussanne, the white grapes of the northern Rhône, are also prominent, but there is increasing interest in Clairette Blanche, Bourboulenc, and Piquepoul Blanc, which typically ripen at lower or alcohols, with higher acidities, or both, and based on my tastings often seem to bring a pleasing touch of salinity or minerality to the wines in addition to freshness.
Not every southern Rhône AOC is allowed to make white wine. Châteauneuf-du-Pape does, of course, and across the river Lirac was the first cru allowed to make all three, red, white, and rosé; whites now make up about 12% of the cru’s production. Gigondas added white wine to its rulebook last year, and Rasteau is pushing for the same change. Whites have long been planted in the cru for use in the Vin Doux Naturel that was Rasteau’s first claim to fame; there are significant plantings and many old vines that should prove equally capable of making concentrated white wines. For now, Rasteau’s producers have to bottle their white wines under the Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages appellation.
Lirac in particular has become a reliable source of fresh-but-substantial white wines, worthy partners to their reds, with which they share that balance of heft, complexity, and energy. Richard Maby, third-generation owner of Domaine Maby in Lirac, says the white varieties do best on the region’s limestone soils rather than the perhaps more famous galets roules. The limestone soils are called “lauze,” can be just as stony as the rounded rocks of the galets roules, but thanks to their white color they reflect the sun’s heat rather than holding on to it. The vines therefore get more of a chance to cool off overnight. Maby says white grapes grown in these conditions retain their acidity better. However, he’s also found that the calcareous soils underneath the limestone don’t retain water as well as the clays found below the galets roules, making limestone vineyards more challenging to manage.
Some recommended southern Rhône whites:
Lirac:
Jocelyn Raoux Lirac Blanc 2022. A blend of Grenache Blanc and Clairette Blanche with a touch of Viognier. Floral, with notes of lime and pink grapefruit and saline undertones. Linear, with good length
Domaine Maby Lirac Blanc 2023. Grenache Blanc makes up just over half of this blend, with Clairette, Piquepoul, and Ugni Blanc countering its fleshy character with freshness and zip. Show more stone fruit, with some lemon and a slight waxy touch on the palate, but still mineral and fresh.
Les Vignobles Assemat Lirac Blanc 2023. An unusual, Piquepoul-led blend, supplemented by Roussanne, Clairette, and a little Viognier. Plump, round, and juicy, with apple and pear notes and ample acidity.
Château de Bouchassy “Magnolia” Lirac Blanc 2022. Another “half Grenache Blanc, half other” blend, with Clairette playing a prime role once more. Waxy and round, with touches of anise, lemon, and nectarine. There’s slight, well-integrated phenolic touch as well.
Rocca Maura “1947” Lirac Blanc 2023. A 40/40 blend of Clairette and Grenache Blanc, the difference filled out by Bourboulenc and Roussanne. Full and round, with stone fruit aromas and a touch of waxiness and spice. The Rocca Maura cooperative named this wine the “1947,” after the birth year of the Lirac cru.
Domaine de la Mordorée “La Reine des Bois” Lirac Blanc. Complex, saline, and long, with notes of apple skin, blood orange, peach and marzipan.
Domaine Ogier "Le Petite Paradoxes" Lirac Blanc 2023. Medium-bodied and well-balanced, with pear and lemon notes and a slight beeswax touch.
Montfauçon "Comtesse Madeleine" 2022. Unusually for the area, Marsanne dominates this wine; it also spends time in neutral wood. It is nonetheless saline, mineral, and linear, with apple and nectarine notes and real elegance on the palate.
Montfauçon “Vin de la Madame de la Comtesse” 2021. The Madeleine’s heftier sibling, the “Madame” sees more oak but old vine Clairette leads the way and keeps the wine fresh and lifted despite its substantial presence on the palate. It’s an impressive wine, sporting a complex blend of white flowers, almond, yellow plum, apple, and lemon zest notes.
Pierre Usseglio Lirac Blanc 2023. One of ten Châteauneuf-du-Pape producers who also own land in Lirac, this is the fourth year they’ve made a Lirac Blanc. The wine, made from Grenache Blanc and Clairette grown on sandy soils, offers great texture and presence, with stone fruit notes and an elegant finish.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape:
Vieux Telegraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2021. Made from 45-year-old vines planted in galet roules. A savory wine, with some notes of apricot, apple, and beeswax. A medium-bodied wine, with a pleasantly saline finish.
Domaine de Marcoux Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2021. Rich and a bit spicy, with some apple notes and a beeswax touch to the finish.
Clos du Mont-Olivet Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2021. Thierry Sabon says this wine has “a Clairette-driven style,” and it does have a certain salinity and elegance to it, despite being otherwise a dense and rounded wine. Nectarine, apricot, and marzipan notes lead the way.
(Almost) Rasteau:
(A few wines that demonstrate why Rasteau Blanc deserves serious consideration, even if right now these wines can only be labeled Côtes du Rhônes Villages or Vin de France):
Domaine de Luminaille Côtes du Rhône Villages Blanc 2022. Made almost entirely from Clairette Blanche and the far less common Clairette Gris, with a touch of Bourboulenc. Light and vibrant, with apple, nectarine, mineral, and lemon balm notes. Well-balanced, elegant, and easy to enjoy.
Domaine Mikaël Boutin Blanc Vin de France 2022. Mostly Grenache Blanc with a dollop of Clairette, this medium-bodied wine has a firm, appealing texture, and good length. It’s complex, too, with notes of honey, pear, mandarin and a saline touch on the finish.