Bodega Norton, Lujan de Cuyo (Mendoza, Argentina) “Privada” 2004 (TGIC Imports, $20): Wine today has become rather like Las Vegas: colorful, flashy, vibrant, with lots of flavor to stimulate the senses, and, in most cases, a lowest-common-denominator appeal. The wines of Bodega Norton, especially the very fine “Privada” red blend, are an antidote to this crass trend toward sensory overload. They are understated, genuine wines for sophisticated appreciation.
Bodega Norton is a century-old Argentine winery that since 1989 has been owned by Gernot Langes-Swarovski (of Swarovski crystal fame), and run by his son, Michael Halstrick. The winery boasts almost 1,700 acres of vines in five separate estates, mainly within the prime Lujan de Cuyo district, at altitudes of 2800 to 3500 feet. All the Norton wines available in the U.S., including the $8.99 tier of “young varietals,” are estate-bottled.
Privada is Norton’s flagship red wine. It’s a blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot that, in 2004, is a 40-30-30% blend. The wine is full-bodied with a substantial, velvety smoothness of texture. Fine tannins seem to run all through the wine when you taste it, rather than being a rear-palate add-on as is the case in so many wines today. The medium-intense nose expresses dark plum fruit with notes of red fruits, too, and a whiff of chocolate. The palate echoes these flavors, but sedately. The aromas and flavors are fruity, but they are understated, and therefore you wouldn’t call this a fruity red wine. Rather, it is a serious red wine, packed with flavor and tannin, but not at all flamboyant.
Privada starts as a selection of the best grapes from the best bunches of the best vineyards of Norton’s five estates. The winemaking process involves cooling of the grapes, ambient yeast fermentation, up to a 30-day maceration of solids and juice, and malolactic (ML) fermentation in the barrels–which (did you guess?) are the best of the best that Norton has, all new French oak.
Two things strike me about this winemaking regime. First, it combines traditional techniques such as a very long maceration with modern (or newly popular again) techniques such as native yeast fermentation and ML in barrel. And second, it is identical to the winemaking used to make Norton’s Reserva wines, the $15 tier of wines below Privada, except that those wines age only 12 months, and in a combination of new and second-use barrels, while Privada ages about 16 months. The key differences, then, in Privada, are the selection of grapes and the fact that it is a blend. Much of the Malbec used in Privada comes, in fact, from old vines, up to 85 and 100 years of age.
Two things also strike me about the wine itself. It is an extremely well-grown, well-made wine that will age beautifully (although totally enjoyable now). And it is an extraordinary value. Speaking of the Swarovski crystal star atop the Christmas tree at Rockefeller Center, Michael Halstrick told me that his father’s motto is, “Don’t just make a few people happy; make many people happy.” For wine lovers, finding such an affordable great wine is indeed happiness.
91 Points