The most famous of brandies is likely Cognac–a drink whose very name conjures up images of wealthy, well-dressed, cigar-smoking men in a private club. But brandy is so much more approachable than that, with delicious and complex options available at a wide range of price points.
Indeed, I’ve never quite understood why–with so many whisky aficionados in this country–we don’t drink more brandy too. Perhaps it’s partly because whisky is so steeped in American history, from the cornfields of the midwest to underground distilleries of prohibition. Maybe it’s because we’re introduced to whisky early in our drinking days, through some of the most ubiquitous cocktails, from Jack and Cokes to Old Fashioneds. Or perhaps it’s because the great brandies of the world are, like European wines, hidden behind labels and terms that can seem intimidating and indecipherable to the uninitiated. Whatever the reason for it flying under the radar, I’m here to tell you that brandy–the distilled cousin of wine–has something to offer everyone.
This piece will focus on some of the great grape brandies from Cognac, Armagnac, and Brandy de Jerez. It will discuss what makes each brandy unique and provide a sampling of options for the curious imbiber to seek out, at an array of price points.
Simply put, brandy is distilled fruit wine. Of the more prominent brandies and the ones we’ll be covering in this piece, grapes are the most commonly used fruit. The process begins by fermenting the sugars within the fruit, which yields a wine-like base. That base wine is then distilled, concentrating the alcohol and removing some impurities. From there, the brandy can be aged in oak, with the influence of oak varying based on region, style, and age.
Cognac
So, what sets apart Cognac, Armagnac, and Brandy de Jerez from the rest? Let’s start with Cognac. Cognac is produced within the Cognac region of France. Cognac is double-distilled, resulting in a smoother, purer base spirit. Cognac is also required to be aged at least two years in oak. As with wine, oak aging will impart complex flavors and aromas. Oak aging also imparts color. The impact of oak aging varies depending on the length of oak aging and the newness of barrels, with younger, cheaper Cognacs often showing less oak character and older, more expensive Cognacs showing more influence.
The length of aging of Cognacs is often denoted on the label with the terms V.S., V.S.O.P., and X.O. being most common. “V.S.” stands for Very Special and carries with it a minimum of two years aging. “V.S.O.P.” stands for Very Superior Old Pale and denotes at least four years of aging. “X.O.” stands for Extra Old and signifies at least 10 years of aging.
While most Cognacs are blends of vintages, with the aging designation pertaining to the youngest of the base spirits included in the blend, you can also find vintage Cognacs, which are produced entirely from grapes of a single harvest, and which will bear the vintage year on the bottle. And there are even more designations, both official and unofficial that denote other aging blending regimens, like Napoleon Cognac, a designation for Cognacs with at least six years of aging, or Réserve Cognac, which must officially be aged for at least 10 years (like X.O. Cognac) but which in practice is aged much longer.
Like Champagne or Port, over the years, a few Cognac producers have established themselves above the rest–not necessarily in terms of quality, but in terms of market presence and consistency. Known as the Big Four, these producers include names you have almost certainly come across, including Hennessy, Rémy Martin, Martell, and Courvoisier. If you’re looking for a starting point in your brandy explorations, the Big Four producers are widely distributed throughout the U.S. and offer selections at a range of price points. But don’t do yourself the disservice of limiting your cognac intake to the Big Four, as there are many smaller producers with fantastic selections.
Armagnac
Let’s continue with Armagnac, the often-overlooked sibling to Cognac, but one that can be even more interesting depending on your preferences. Armagnac, like Cognac, is primarily made from grapes. The process of distillation, however, sets Armagnac apart. Unlike Cognac, which is double-distilled, Armagnac is typically distilled only once, resulting in a brandy that retains more raw, fruity characteristics and spicy nuances, making Armagnac a bit more rustic, robust, and full-bodied than its more refined cousin, Cognac.
While Armagnac sometimes uses the same aging terms as Cognac (V.S., V.S.O.P., X.O., etc.), Armagnac tends to be aged for longer periods than Cognac and more frequently designates a vintage. Indeed, many producers age their spirits for decades, resulting in deeper, more complex flavors. Armagnac’s full-bodied flavor profile makes Armagnac particularly appealing to lovers of bold, complex whiskies and ryes.
Because of its artisanal production methods and smaller-scale operations, Armagnac remains a good value in the brandy world. While Cognac may dominate the global market, Armagnac continues to be the choice of connoisseurs looking for a more rustic, earthy spirit with depth and complexity. For those interested in exploring Armagnac, notable producers include Darroze and Delord, both of which offer a range of expressions, from young and vibrant to old and contemplative.
Brandy de Jerez
Finally, we come to Brandy de Jerez, Spain’s proud contribution to the world of brandy and perhaps one of the best values in the world of brandy, too. Coming from Western Spain’s Sherry-producing region, Brandy de Jerez sets itself apart from other brandies with its unique aging process. Like Sherry, Brandy de Jerez is aged in a solera system, where younger brandy is continuously blended with older brandy. This method of fractional blending imparts incredible complexity, with flavors that harmonize layers of dried fruit, nuts, toffee, and spice.
Brandy de Jerez tends to be darker and richer than its French counterparts, with more pronounced sherry-like notes, thanks to the influence of the barrels, which previously held sherry. The result is a brandy that is velvety smooth, with rich, raisiny sweetness, making it a perfect after-dinner drink or accompaniment to dessert. The aging classifications for Brandy de Jerez differ slightly from Cognac and Armagnac, with the main designations being Solera (aged for one year), Solera Reserva (aged for at least three years), and Solera Gran Reserva (aged for at least 10 years)–and in practice, these minimums are often exceeded.
For those seeking out Brandy de Jerez, producers like González Byass (famous for their Tío Pepe Sherry) and Lustau offer excellent options. This style of brandy pairs beautifully with cigars or can be enjoyed on its own, offering a rich, warm finish that is both indulgent and complex. If you’ve ever been enchanted by the bold, nutty flavors of sherry, Brandy de Jerez will feel like a natural progression in your exploration of spirits.
In conclusion, while whisky may reign supreme in American bars, brandy offers a vast and diverse world of flavors, from the refined elegance of Cognac to the rustic boldness of Armagnac, and the Sherry-inflected richness of Brandy de Jerez. Each of these spirits brings its own unique story, flavor profile, and cultural heritage to the table, offering something for every palate and every occasion. So, the next time you find yourself in search of a new sipping experience, consider reaching for a bottle of brandy—you might just find your next favorite drink.
Martell V.S. Cognac, $35 – 91 pts.: With nice depth of color for a VS cognac, Martell’s VS has a very pretty nose, giving off scents of dried flowers and fruit with just a dash of baking spice. Elegant and smooth on the palate, the Cognac has a lasting sweet finish. This a bargain Cognac for the price, and a great example of what even younger Cognacs can bring to the table.
Marie Duffan Napoleon Bas Armagnac, $40 – 92 pts.: Pears and crème brûlée waft from the glass. In the mouth, the spirit starts tame and smooth, but transitions to spicier, rustic finish with just a hint of sweetness.
Delord X.O. Bas Armagnac, $55 – 92 pts.: Darker, prune and cinnamon notes show on the nose. In the mouth, this one is immediately spicy and robust–one for the rye lovers among us.
Jean Cave 1983 Vintage Vieil Armagnac, $150 – 95 pts.: A truly harmonious bouquet of plums, caramel, and walnuts. The palate is no less harmonious; its full-bodied, robust profile, showing notes of walnuts, spice, and just a touch of brown sugar.
Lustau Solera Reserva Brandy de Jerez, $24 – 94 pts.: Easily one the best values in brandy. For less than every other brandy reviewed here, this is one of the most complex, delicious, and interesting of the lot. The nose erupts with notes of toffee, brown sugar, molasses, prunes, cinnamon and clove. Aged in Amontillado Sherry casks, the tell-tale note of sea spray so often found in sherries is present here too. In the mouth, this brandy is remarkably rich and robust, while maintaining a silky smoothness and lasting, sweet finish.
Lustau Solera Gran Reserva Finest Selection Brandy de Jerez, $50 – 96 pts.: A dark, nearly black color in the bottle, this brandy has seen an average of 15 years aging in American Oak barrels previously used for aging Oloroso and Pedro Ximenez sherries. Wafting from the glass is an immensely complex and layered bouquet of toasted nuts, dried plums and apricots, chocolate, licorice, and caramelized sugar. The palate is rich and lush, showing flavors of milk chocolate, coffee, fennel, and toffee. The finish goes on for ages. While more expensive than the Solera Reserva above, this is still fantastic value, given the level of complexity that this brandy presents.