This is the time of year when wine writers are inevitably called upon to offer wine-pairing recommendations for that all-important Thanksgiving meal. How many more times does it need to be written that Gewurztraminer – Beaujolais – Riesling – Zinfandel – Pinot etc. etc. are the perfect wines for turkey day?
Rather than rehash that tired theme (any more than I just did), I’m going to make anti-recommendations. Here are my picks for what NOT to serve with Thanksgiving dinner.
• Tannic Reds: I don’t care how much you love mouth-drying Cabs and Bordeaux wines, they’re guaranteed to overwhelm the flavors of delicate
turkey and mashed potatoes — even with gravy. And I shudder to think of what they’ll taste like with sweet dishes like cranberry sauce and sweet potatoes. Save the tannic reds for a different holiday, like National Beef Day.
• Trophy Wines: Unless your family members are serious wine geeks, save your best bottles for a smaller affair. Take my family as an example. I’m first-generation Italian, so my relatives wouldn’t let a day pass without drinking at least one glass of vino. But, more likely than not, that vino comes in a gallon jug. To my family, wine is like water — a daily necessity that doesn’t require analysis or discussion. Just drink it! So why would I bust out my 1998 Brunello for folks who would be just as happy with a tasty-but-not-precious table wine?
• Throw-Away Wines: Not serving your best bottles with Thanksgiving dinner doesn’t mean that you should head straight for the Two-Buck Chuck floor stack at Trader Joe’s. Avoid wines with cutesy animals on the labels, wines under $3 and pretty much anything that’s packaged in a box, or a bottle that holds more than 1.5 liters. That’s not to say that you should never buy those wines for everyday mindless drinking, but holidays call for something more interesting, with more personality in the bottle than on the outer packaging.
• Champagne (with Dessert): Some people love to serve Champagne or other fine sparkling wines at the end of a special meal, but the Brut style just doesn’t cut it with sweet desserts. These wines are just too dry, and the pairing won’t do any favors for the Champagne or your mom’s pumpkin pie. Demi-sec sparklers are another story.
• Oaky Chardonnay: While Chardonnay doesn’t necessarily clash with Thanksgiving fare, this is the holiday meal that really lets alternative whites shine. This is the time to break out of the daily Chard habit and try something different!
Whatever you choose to drink — or not drink — this Thanksgiving, here’s wishing you a safe, fun-filled and delicious holiday.
40